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Posts by NamelessPFG

Does this mean I better put my $1 copy of Suikoden II on eBay ASAP?   I normally wouldn't, but I'm kinda short on cash right now.
Next time I'm in the position to blow $300+ on headphones, I'm treating myself to another Stax SR-Lambda in as close to original condition as can be reasonably expected for a vintage headphone like that. Maybe it'll be a Koss ESP/950 instead, but now we're talking $600+ with an amp that most people replace with a proper Pro bias Stax amp and make adapter cables for. The days of $350 BIN ESP/950s on eBay are long past.
It'll work, but you won't be getting Dolby Headphone-mixed audio, which will mean crippled stereo mixing with no sense of front and rear. I can't compare to the HD598, sorry. Not fair to talk about headphones I haven't personally evaluated.
Let me clarify that statement on TrueAudio: when I said it was a "CPU-alternative approach", I meant it in much the same fashion as how DirectSound3D had a very crappy software renderer with hardware acceleration on sound card DSPs of the era. No sound card, no effects.But that approach was a bit more dependent on the sound card's audio processing capabilities, especially with Aureal and Creative pitching A3D and EAX respectively. TrueAudio should allow more flexibility...
EAX needs to be accessed through OpenAL or DirectSound3D, but EAX itself is NOT OpenAL or DirectSound3D, which are primarily APIs to facilitate the placement of sounds in 3D space.   OpenAL doesn't even need the proprietary EAX, really; it's been displaced by the newer EFX, which tends to be supported on non-Creative OpenAL renderers like Rapture3D.   All of that said, while both the old DS3D/OAL APIs and AMD's new TrueAudio API were generally designed with hardware...
That depends entirely on whether you're going to be gaming on that setup or not.   You add a sound card to the chain if you need its gaming DSP features; even a cheap one with S/PDIF output will suffice for that.   Otherwise, you can use S/PDIF straight from the motherboard audio codec or USB and not lose anything.
 Haha, of all the things to come up here, it's that one Sega CD FMV game the guys at HG101 stream every now and then... The timing on some of those input cues is painfully tight, though! I haven't seen any of 'em ever finish it.
That most likely has to do with its exorbitant price tag.   To be honest, the only reason I own one is because I got it for a mere $142 shipped, knowing full well there would be a problem with the spliced replacement headphone plug and I'd have to break out the soldering iron to fix it...and I did. (Still wanna fully recable this thing, though.)   At $300+? No thanks. The mic's really nice, one of the few that can effectively negate a Model M's noise in the background,...
 Duly noted for whenever I get around to entirely re-writing this guide so that people don't keep repeatedly asking the same questions all the time. That will most likely have to wait 'til next month, however. There are tests and final exams coming up.
That's Stax money, easily.   Start shopping for some vintage Lambdas and an SRM-T1 to drive 'em with, or maybe consider a modern SR-307/SRM-323S combo once they fall back to $1,000 again.
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