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Posts by wakibaki

12V, 800mA.   This is a respectable-sized wallwart, but far from the biggest. Get a 1A one. Take the last foot or so of the cable and pass it repeatedly through a ferrite toroid or other large bead, preferably lossy, with as low frequency as you can find. Stop only when just sufficient cable remains to make the connection.   DC cable length matters. The intent is to put distance between the AC parts of the circuit and the DC-using part. This is absolutely the cheapest...
Sorry, should have read the thread, I didn't realise there was regulation in there. Measure the voltage across the resistor (75R) and make sure you have 1.25V. w
From the numbers, you are running 24VDC into a battery with about ~16.5V depending on state of charge. So you're dropping 7.5V across 75 ohms, which is 100mA, far too much to trickle charge a 250mAh battery. You need ~330 ohms to get the current below 20mA, (less than C/10). w
I believe Celemony's Capstan either works at or outputs 2496 by default. While it is primarily targeted at tape, I believe it can be used to process vinyl rips. Again, it is a commercial application, intended for use professional production. Like so much software, however, now that the cat's out of the bag, the functionality can't be hard to mimic. Capstan is €3790. I would expect to see post production software like this to be used increasingly in 'domestic' systems...
You might be interested in:- http://www.johncon.com/john/SSheadphoneAmp/.   There's a program on that page which allows crossfeed preprocessing of audio files, i.e. you put in myfile.wav and you get out myfile-headphone.wav. The effect is tunable to an extent.   w
Interesting. I couple of years ago I drew up a reclocking circuit very similar to what you describe shown here:- http://wakibaki.com/audio.php#t1 2 CPLDs clock data in and out of a buffer, the local clock is derived from a VCXO, the clock rate is managed to prevent buffer over- and underruns. I've never been convinced that jitter is the problem it's made out to be, so I never attempted to build it. Like so much audiophile electronics, it's probably just a redundant...
Craptacular.   w
 Normally the TV digital out, S/PDIF or optical, is connected to the external DAC. The audio from the DAC goes to the headphone amplifier. You plug the headphones into the amplifier, you turn down the TV speakers using the remote. You may have to fiddle with the outputs in the menu. That's how you're sure you're listening to the DAC, it's the only input to the headamp. Now you can take your DAC output and switch it to an integrated or preamp, or you can treat the headphone...
I'd go with 10 AA NiMh cells:- http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-NiMH-Precharged-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B007B9NV8Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395864675&sr=8-1&keywords=aa+rechargeable+batteries   ...in a pack like this:- http://www.ebay.com/itm/Battery-case-box-holder-for-x-10AA-size-cells-15V-0522-/281107208346?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_2&hash=item41734b989a   ...it says 15V, but that's for alkaline cells.   You can arrange to charge these from a wall-wart, or simply use...
Yes, that sounds right. I just guessed that the 2 pots would be regular linear pots with opposite rotations, so halfway for each would be 25k->25k. These appear to deliver full output on one channel throughout the range of adjustment of the other channel, which actually makes more sense than an arrangement that would throw away gain.   w
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