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Posts by wakibaki

  Just kidding. I think, though, that any fatigue is more likely the result of having your head and ears squeezed, or your earholes stretched, than anything to do with your actual hearing.   Too loud, too long, is another matter, although it's easy to tolerate even this as the number of people with hearing damage in later years shows.   w
  Don't pay any more for it than you do for 16/44.   Concentrate on the quality of the music and the musicians, forget the technical stuff. You'll get more benefit in terms of musical enjoyment from learning to play yourself than you will from any amount of energy or money put into technology, nowadays it's so good and it costs so little. 16/44 is so good that you can throw away most of it and you have to struggle to tell the difference.   w
    I have trouble accepting that. I find that if the musical content is sufficiently captivating I can ignore just about any kind of technical issue.   Anybody who listened to commercial AM (pirate radio, Radio Luxembourg) in the UK in the 60's and 70's will know what I'm talking about. We got a bit frustrated when the audio faded out completely, but it had to be really bad before we gave up listening. Like, big chunks missing.   That's why I find the whole audiophile...
Listening fatigue?   You pussies have been reading too many audiophile reviews.   I once stood right in front of the speakers for 3 hours straight at a Hawkwind gig.   What's that you say?   Young people nowadays got no stamina.   w
  Yes, that's what I read, early on just after the release. Then a load of flame wars broke out on the RPi forum, because it turned out there was some kind of hardware problem with the USB on the first version, many people saying that it wouldn't support reliable audio playback, and it became very difficult to tell what was the actual state of play. I certainly couldn't get mine to work with what I thought was a minimal software burden, I had to return the first one...
I'm afraid $1000 for a streaming music player is exactly what I was hoping to avoid. I wanted the RPi to strip data from my NAS and feed it out the USB port to a DAC and thence to one or other of my amplifiers. It proved incapable of reading from its own SD card and sending it to the DAC without gaps and pops.   I dunno, maybe somebody's found out how to do it reliably, but a setup that would work no problem on most other Linux boxes just didn't hack it, and I didn't...
The HT Omega website says the Claro Halo XT uses a TPA6120A2 to drive the HP output. You cannot readily replace this part, as it is SMT with a central heatsink pad on the underside, removing it from the board might be possible with a hot-air desoldering station, but it will not be easy, and anyway what would you replace it with? It is a dual amplifier with independent supply in a 20-pin package with 10 pins N/C. An AD8397 will not fit the footprint, and anyway is...
OK, well, a 500W amp is no joke. You won't be able to get a single-chip solution like you could for 80W or so and when a big amp goes wrong, it usually goes wrong more dramatically than a little one.    You posted a link earlier to Rod Elliott's site for the the PSU, if you look on his site you'll find this:- http://sound.westhost.com/project68.htm, which is a 500W subwoofer amp.   20-30 lines down the page it says explicitly in large red lettering:-   DO NOT...
http://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-SPA500-Subwoofer-Amplifier/dp/B0048FHWL8     You might shave a few bucks by building one yourself, but you could easily spend quite a lot more...   w
You want 50 Amps? 50 Amps?   I think you need to reassess what you're doing here. 12VDC into 2 ohms resistive is 6A.   Now, car amplifiers can draw a lot of current, but this is usually because they are switching amplifiers, or incorporate switch-mode PSUs, to drive high current into typical speaker impedances in a bridged configuration, and in cases like that can pull high currents, maybe 50A, but a domestic subwoofer? This is just looking for unnecessary...
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