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Posts by bluemonkeyflyer

Check McMaster-Carr for inserts.Check Post #1 of FIMM for info about how to use superglue and a 2mm drill bit to repair stripped cup threads.
 Looks OK. Have you listened to them?   Use a DMM to test resistance between the terminals on each diaphragm. You should get around 47 to 50 ohms and you want Left and Right channels to measure close to the same ohms. If it works and sounds good with no cut-outs, I'd leave well enough alone and not worry about the dull appearance.
Don't remove solder from the factory solder pads. I find that adding a tiny bit of solder to the factory pads makes it easier join the new tinned wire to the pad. I clean my iron, flux the pad, hold the iron and solder near the pad, touch solder to iron, and immediately touch iron to pad for no more than 2 seconds. I use a fine conical tip at ~ 650F. Using a blunt tip like a chisel or screwdriver tip will hold more heat so the temperatures I use would have to be...
If using a pigtail of the original T50RP wires from the solder pads, use a lot of liquid flux (Kester flux pen) and a hot iron around 700F to tin the original T50RP wires; they don't easily take solder so it may require 2 or 3 tries to get adequate coverage. Make a "hook" by using needle nose pliers at the pigtail and the new wire and crimp in place for a good mechanical joint. Add some heat shrink for insulation where you join your new wires to the pigtails then flux the...
You could try a thin layer of cotton, felt, or a 1 cm square of acoustic foam on the center of the ear side baffle...or a combination.
Try ear side damping.
The pillars and shock absorbers decouple the baffle from the cup to reduce vibration--induced distortion.
3M Transpore tape.
Take a look at garage1217 amps. Great sound at any price and great price:performance. I have Project Sunrise II and Project Ember. Both are terrific. Ember is my preference.
Cat Power - Sweedeedee Reminds me of Cowboy Junkies.
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