Best to build them separately in case the mic fails. Phantom Power Supply can be built Mono or Stereo. See Post 1 for the schematic by 'solderdude' and phantom photo built in Mono. I will soon upload the Stereo version.
Better Modified Bass Ports are shown in Post 1 of this thread. You have to test various mods to find out what sounds best to you. The 1 mm dimension is the height of the slots. I seal the top 3 slots and seal all but 3 mm width of the bottom slot with the modified bass port (the opening) in the center. You don't have to remove the stock internal bass vent felt. Make a cover using thin-stiff cardboard with the 1 mm x 3 mm opening centered over the bottom slot. If you make...
If you make many modification cycles using the screws each time, the cup threads will strip. You can avoid this by using masking tape in place of the screws. If the cup threads strip, you can repair with superglue, let it harden for at least 24 hours, and then re-tap. Instructions are in Post #1 of this thread.
It seems that it may take a few weeks for Bake to Dry "clay" to melt and crumble ABS plastic.
Post 7847 for results of using the wrong "clay."
Post 7869 (at the bottom) for the the culprit.
Note, the same thing happens if you use Lock-Tite to help the tiny 2 mm screws grab hold of stripped cup threads. Stripped cup threads can be repaired, melted cups and baffles are ready for the recyle bin.
There are posts in the other thread about melted cups and baffles caused by Bake to Dry clay. I never tried it and have no knowledge about Bake Shop Clay.
As far as I know, Newplast is not available in USA. I previously bought 15 bars from a supplier in England - sorry, none left after sharing with head-fi guys and gals. Newplast works great and it's relatively easy to remove. It won't dry out and does not melt plastic.
Polymer clays contain a basis of...
Only Fostex knows for sure, But.... I think there's no difference. Parts are interchangeable across all 3 sets. They look identical under close inspection, including the diaphragms and magnets...I've taken them apart many times and looked at them under magnificaiton. There is definitely manufacturing variance Within and Between models:> rear damping porosity> rear damping glue --> some are not fully glued down on corners; glue partially seals / blocks a grid space> rear...
I'd say potentially but will require testing, listening, and measuring Before and After installation. I suspect that for them to work on T50RP and siblings the rear damping paper will have to be removed and re-configured.