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Posts by bluemonkeyflyer

That's great to hear! Congratulations on your successful mod. Your persistence and creative application of common materials at hand has paid off. If the sound is good, measurements don't matter.I'm glad the modified bass port helped, too. By adjusting the width as little as 1 mm wider or narrower tunes the bass for your specific damping scheme.Cheers
 The 4 rubber-capped posts make contact with the 4 corners of the driver. Closing the baffle to cup with the 4 baffle screws slightly compresses the rubber shock absorbers. This provides at least two benefits:Decouples the baffles from the cups  Provides positive pressure on the tightened-down baffle screws Good luck!
 I tried opening the top faux "vents" a couple of years ago using a Dremel. I thought doing so might make T50RP sound more open. This did not work for me, though. The drivers were out of control. The bass quantity significantly increased but bass quality suffered, becoming slow and boomy. The mids took a big hit and sounded muffled and too recessed due to bass bloat. The treble freqs ran for cover from the Wooly Bass Monster.  For me, opening the top vents created a...
:-)I agree.
LOL! I didn't think so, but ya never know. The Blue or Red dot goes at the bottom of the baffle:  Orientation does matter if you want to maintain patency of  the baffle port. The baffle port at the top of the driver must align with the top of the baffle, where the baffle port is located.
 This is the rear side:  Is that what you're asking?
I have a few things you might need for cost + shipping.  PM me.
 I have a few left. PM me.
I agree on both points. I've got a lot to learn about digital photography! I learned photography back in the dark age of developing film in a dark room. LOLI expected that crappy photo to get booted. I did not expect an edit. That's more like what I had in mind.Cheers
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