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Posts by bluemonkeyflyer

 I used 22 gauge and 28 gauge steel sheet metal from Home Depot for baffles in 2 transplant projects. I like the results. Links in my profile: Amfiton TDS-15 transplant into Takstar HI 2050 donor...Post 21777Yamaha YHD-1 transplant into  Fostex T10 donor...Post 22600
 Hopefully, a re-cable and re-balancing the mod components will solve your problem. I use a calibrated digital scale accurate to 0.01 mg to weigh cotton, felt, fiberglass, etc., and digital calipers to measure everything in order to insure balanced sound. All the leaky areas into / out of the cups need to be sealed on both sides: cable entry points and especially the area around the 3.5 mm jack in the left cup. The vents at the bottom of the cups must be identical. If...
Good to know. Nice work. Maybe de-solder and re-solder the Right driver wires / diaphragm solder tabs?
Dual / Stereo Phantom Power Supply designed by solderdude and Panasonic WM61-A wired microphones. This allows you to make objective (within groups comparisons) of your headphones using ARTA or REW.
Sure but to remove the cable from the equation, clip the leads to both drivers and measure each. May or may not be a significant difference without the cable but you'll know you're  looking at the drivers, only. Good luck!
PM if you want me to take a look at it.
More Crossfeed Filter progress:   I built Frans' (aka solderdude) CrossFeed Filter. I added 8-pin ICs which allows easily testing the effects of various Resistor values without having to desolder them each time...Thanks dbel84 for the suggestion. Works like a charm.   Annotated pictures in Post #1 of this thread, see Chapter 33   Next up, just now starting to build Jan Meier's "Corda Cross-1" crossfeed filter.   ~BMF
 You can clip the cable leads to the Right driver. Leave a "pig tail" so you can easily solder it back in place. Use your DMM to test resistance. Should be around 50 ohms.
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