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Posts by bluemonkeyflyer

Go to the link in my signature.
Everything you need to build your own headphone measurement kit.
DIY measurement kit works with REW and ARTA.
Looks like I'm late to the party but I've been hoping for this opportunity to try HE-1000, what a good friend told me is "The Best Listening Experience" he's ever heard from headphones and full size speakers. For comparison, I have HE-6, HD-800, LCD2, PM-1 and PM-3, HA-1, GS-X mk II, and several other phones and amps.
Significantly better "Grab." It bonds permanently and won't pull loose like 3M and other double sided tape.  It's similar to the stock stuff that holds the T50RP pads to the baffles. Set it and forget it.
  Good find, nick n. Thanks for posting...adding to my Buy It list, now.
I would first check the TRS connections.There's probably only 4 wood screws holding the baffle to the cup.Be careful separating the baffles from the cups, depending on how much slack there is for the wires.
 Closing the bottom vent will reduce bass quantity and improve bass quality. Edit: Partially closing the bottom vents...there needs to be at least a little bit of venting or the bass gets shut down.
 I used 22 gauge and 28 gauge steel sheet metal from Home Depot for baffles in 2 transplant projects. I like the results. Links in my profile: Amfiton TDS-15 transplant into Takstar HI 2050 donor...Post 21777Yamaha YHD-1 transplant into  Fostex T10 donor...Post 22600
 Hopefully, a re-cable and re-balancing the mod components will solve your problem. I use a calibrated digital scale accurate to 0.01 mg to weigh cotton, felt, fiberglass, etc., and digital calipers to measure everything in order to insure balanced sound. All the leaky areas into / out of the cups need to be sealed on both sides: cable entry points and especially the area around the 3.5 mm jack in the left cup. The vents at the bottom of the cups must be identical. If...
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