New Posts  All Forums:

Posts by bluemonkeyflyer

dBel84, iQEM, and nick n: Thank you  for your informative replies, support, and generally helpful attitudes. @ Bel84: Your screwdriver advice for "how to" open the T30s was sublime, parsimonious, and apropos  ;-) I have measured T10, T20 v0, T20 v1 (or v2...I forget the nomenclature), T30, and T50 v1  in stock form; also T10 modified, YHD-1 transplanted into T10 shells, and T20 v1 modified . I'm happy to post/share any of these if there is any interest in my Humble DIY...
 Hi iQEM, Seems that Brian (?) must have asked you about modifying theT30, too. Excellent! Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience. I will be modifying one set to compare with the other in stock form. I agree that the T30 in stock form sounds dark and a bit veiled, especially compared to T10. I have some T10s that I modified a T20 (first release) to modify, as well. It will be fun to contrast and compare these 3 vintage orthos.
Thx, dBel84. I figured the top and bottom screws held it all in place, but just wanted to make sure I was not missing anything important.Thx, also, for the PM with pix.
 Thanks, Nick. I suppose the top and bottom screws on the cup edge allow safe opening. Are the snap tabs at the same location?  I will check the Wiki.
iQEM,   I have a couple of sets of Fostex T30s. I know you've done a lot of mods to yours. Would you mind offering some suggestions about how to tighten the bass and extend the treble?   ...and, how do I open these without damaging them?...I have screwdriver at the ready thanks to dBel84.  ;-)
Would be interesting to see this graph set to 5 dB scale. Edit: Either you're fast or I missed the second graph on first look...probably the latter.
Doh....LOL!I was about to use my blow torch and ball peen hammer.
Does anyone know the best way to open Fostex T30?   Thanks in advance.
 I agree. Fostex part prices are sky high. The baffle screws were $1.50 each a couple of years ago.I think a single driver was around $70.Stock pads are $25 each. Good luck.
1. Remove the large Phillips head screw that holds Connector B to the headband slider rails.2. Remove the 4 baffle screws. Do not remove the 3 inner baffle screws that secure the driver to the baffle.3. Separate the baffle from the cup.4. Remove the large Phillips head screw in center of the cup. Here's the Slider Holder that you need. It looks like the outside half is not available, at the moment. Here's the Collar that you may not need. It's held in place by the screw in...
New Posts  All Forums: