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Posts by derbigpr

  Aren't they quite tricky in terms of the cable thickness? I was thinking about using them instead of mini-xlr too, but what bothers me is that I won't be able to solder a cable into them.
  Are those the hifiman connectors?
 You have to unscrew that plastic cover on the back of the baffle that you can see on the picture I posted, 4 screws. Carefully because the cable is glued in the hole that goes through that cover and there's very little slack on the wire inside, so if you pull it off, you might rip the PCB contacts on the back of the driver itself. It's best to use a scalpel or a needle and slowly pick that gooey black glue out until you loosen the cable enough. After that, the driver pops...
  They're precised almost exactly the same (like half a pound more expensive for mk2) on the european spare parts store, so I doubt they're better, they just have a bigger baffle to fit inside the bigger cup on the mk2, hence the slightly higher price for a bit more plastic, but exactly same design otherwise.
  Told ya, they're super cheap drivers considering they come in a almost 400 dollar pair of headphones. The only fault is that they come built into the assembly, so it's a problem to extract the driver itself out of the assembly because it's glued onto the baffle, and the whole driver chamber is tuned perfectly for the driver. 
 Well, it will work, but whether it will work at it's full potential, that is the question. If the driver was tuned to work in an environment where the rear of the driver is fully vented and can "breathe", then it might compromise the performance quite a bit if you seal it into a cup and introduce changes to the sound that might be bad or good, someone has to try. And you also open a whole other box of problems in terms of finding the exact volume of the chamber behind the...
  The tricky part about using different drivers is the fact that they're all different in shape and all have special ways of attaching to a baffle. Luckily Ypsilon driver is a nice even shape 46+9mm, so it's easy to glue it, pressure fit it or secure it with screws, but other drivers from manufacturers have special ways of attaching and requires a specific design in order to fit. Like the picture of the baffle I posted, that's for a 45mm drivers from Beyerdynamic, the kind...
 Your countries official Sennheiser website should have a link to a support page or spare parts page. If not just send them an email and ask for a spare part. Here's the UK version of the site: http://headphonespares.sennheiser.co.uk/ It can also take you to their professional headphone spare parts, the link directly takes you to consumer headphones. You'll notice that in their professional and higher end headphones, the price of the drivers usually accounts for about...
  Oh yea, I almost forgot, about the back wave, honestly, if you make a fully opened design, then the best thing to do is to do as little as possible. Just keep the rear of the driver as opened to the outside as possible, a grill, maybe a thin layer of fabric that is very transparent to sound and airflow to make it look nicer, that's it. I found that most drivers from open back headphones get honky and too mid-centric once you start blocking grills behind the driver,...
  It's pointless to use PX100 drivers for a closed design when Sennheiser will sell you spare Momentum Over Ear II drivers for 8 € each, and that's with the baffle and the little chamber behind the driver and a PCB plate for the soldering of wires.  Those drivers are insanely cheap for how good they are, I couldn't believe how cheap Sennheiser sells them for through their official spare parts website, considering they put them inside a 350-400 dollar headphone, but they're...
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