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Posts by chinsettawong

Gentlemen!  May I point you to one of the threads where my friend was doing a FR test of my headphones driver?  From there, you can probably get some useful information.   http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/headphone-systems/145143-building-wachara-headphone.html   By the way, the spacers used were 1 mm and the mechanical tension of this strecher was not at its ideal weight for the headphones.   As for me, I don't care much about how my headphones' measurement is.  I...
Hi Georg,   Please refer to the dimension of the inner tire diaphragm stretcher that I use.     I draw a few lines on the wood frame.  Before I pump in the air, I draw a line on the diaphragm directly on top of one of the lines I draw on the wood frame.  Then I pump in the air and observe how much the diaphragm elongates.  Anyway, this method can only serve as a very rough guideline.  I still have to do and redo many times to get the just right tension.   Wachara C.
Yes, it does make quite a lot of difference to my ears.
Hi Georg, Those parts look great. About inner tyre pump, I use a small handheld pump. Slowly observe the diaphragm. My elongation target is only around 0.5-1 mm. You might want to try a few times until you get it just right. About etching out the unneeded copper, if you prefer the sound of Stax SR007 to SR009, then you don't need to do any etching. But if you like SR009 better, then you do. You can try to experiment and see it for yourself which way you like better.
Birgir was trying to do a heat treatment on the diaphragm. But in my experience, Mylar doesn't need further heat treatment after its mechanical tensioning. You can try it if you want.
 Obviously you haven't read my old posts.  :)   That's how I have been doing mine.  ;)
Your drum tensioner should work fine. However, you'll soon find out that finding the just right tension is quite difficult - too much tension and you lose bass, too little and you have stability problem. You'll see what I mean soon. By the way, keep reading the older posts.
I think it's pronounced "mai lar".   If you have read my older posts, I mentioned again and again that I used 3 microns Mylar as I find it to be the best sounding out of many thicknesses that I have tried.   There are many sources where you can get Mylar film.  Ebay is the cheapest that I can find.  Eraudio in Australia is another great source.   The real technic is to tension your Mylar to just right.  That takes a lot of practice.   Wachara C.
Hi wppk, It's not worth trying all kinds of plastics when you know the kind that really works. Mylar can be bought easily from Ebay. It's not so expensive, IMO.
If you just want to try for fun, something like these can sound pretty good too:     Here is what my friend made using a similar product:       Wachara C.
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