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Posts by goodvibes

Since it will be out of warranty anyway, the AKs are not that difficult to open and remove the battery. I can't remembers if the leads are soldered or if there's a clip but it's directly under the rear cover.
Well said. I never regret my JH13fp purchase and I'm sure UERM owners feel the same. The new totl devices may do some things better but I seem to enjoy mine just as much and never felt the need to change after a listen. I'm also not a ue18 or jh16 kind of guy. Make sure to not get too caught up in the tonality until you have a 100 hrs or more on them.
Good IEMs typically show distortion near 1% in the low bass and .5% somewhere else in it's range at a 100dB level. Every time you double up a driver distortion drops and that's always better as these sort of levels are clearly in the audible range. You may also help hold off ringing. With an even number of multiple drivers per range, you can siamese them to fully cancel vibration and resonance to further reduce IM distortions and the sort of thing that will show up more...
Point was to use drivers that that don't do that. There's plenty out there to choose from and not that difficult to have things made. It's never easy to make a good multi way device but starting with viable parameters helps. If you make the best IEM in the universe but only 1/2 the buyers can approximate it's true performance, is it really a great design? Most DAPs and even stationary headphone amps or consoles have 1 ohm or higher output impedance. I think a 2 ohm output...
Apologies. I assumed that you measured it with an ohmmeter because it's not commonly given by makers. At least that one's easily repeatable. From experience, actual impedance at low frequencies is generally about 25-30% higher than measured resistance.
Your customs are more V shaped than my customs. LOL
The battery can act like smoothing for a noisy switch mode charger so can't tell much from that. You need what you know to be a good battery to do a proper test.
No, I said 40 bit would be needed for 24 bit material at lowest volume control levels but 24 db down from max along with the gain switches should be sufficient in actual use especially since I believe you can get a lot more dynamic range than you quoted without over manipulating bits.  Regardless, they've come up with a nice solution for the purpose and aren't losing bits as soon as the...
To me, the bass is just more delineated in 2.1 and sounds like there is less because it's not warming everything up. I much prefer the current bass character.
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