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Posts by ProtegeManiac

 If you'll be using it as a portable just get an IEM that the iPad can easily drive. Beware though - too efficient, like over 125dB/1mW, and you could get too loud between each step in the volume settings. When out and about, in a train/plane, or in bed, I just use my SGS3 or iPad2 driving my Aurisonics ASG-1.3 - the only part that's bulky is the Pelican case for the IEM.
 I think there's a Crossfeed plug-in for Windows but I can't remember what, nor whether it works on all sound sources or just with the media player it's a plug in for. Search for it here and you might find threads on it.
 OK, first off, doing that on a jack that's functioning normally just means you're sending anything but the actual 2ch signal into each earcup. See those black grooves on the headphone plug? They separate sections of that plug - tip is for left +, the next is right +, and the shaft is for shared GND. Not putting it in means you're putting in a signal where it isn't supposed to go. There's likely something wrong with the wiring on the jack or on the headphone cable, since...
I do the reverse - I go to restaurants that aren't steakhouses just to try their steaks. Steakhouses will give you the better quality beef at their peak condition, but to do justice to them, they'd barely have any side dishes and no sauce, so sometimes I order filet in other places just to try whatever garnish or sauce they put under or on the steak. Here's a tenderloin steak at a Paella restaurant here. They top it with some kind of hot, spicy salsa, and they actually...
Strip the outer shielding and leave only the inner strands with their own shielding first. If you can do that without damaging the conductors and their individual shielding, and you don't pick up any interference with just the inner shielding (does it even have a new outer shield past the Y-junction going into each earcup?), then you got a new one for free.   Now in case you might want to pick up the cable to minimize the downtime (in case you end up damaging the...
 First off, I don't think the E07K even works with iDevices; many tried the E7 before it and I don't think the E07K was much of an improvement, and these were attempted without the either of them docked into the E9. You can get the cables/adapters now and try it, no harm in seeing if it does or doesn't. If the problem is mainly USB power, and the E09 charges the E07 when docked, then it's more likely that it might work. For further compatibility info search in this...
 I'll stop you right there. You're at a car show, and you're going to run a fullrange signal through two tweeters and maybe use a headphone amplifier to drive them?! I see too many problems with this.1. Portable headphone amps typically don't get to 1watt per channel. A tweeter might need around 3watts of undistorted output. 2. Tweeters can't handle a fullrange signal, they're not designed to do that. At best, the midrange rolls off and bass will be non-existent; at worst,...
Did you try reversing the wires on the earcups, just to make sure it is the headphone and not any of the upstream components? 
 If it's new then the best way to deal with it is get a replacement unit or have the dealer/manufacturer fix it. I'd never poke around inside anything that's still under warranty; I mean, that's the point of having a warranty to begin with. You can end up voiding that warranty by poking around in there, and damage something else in the process; or even if you don't and you simply got a lemon unit, then you don't have a warranty anymore. The only reason to have it repaired...
Try the Superlux HD330/HD660 first, see if that fits. They're surprisingly good for $40 if you don't nitpick with the sound. In my case, it wasn't just the sound, but also the fit - it was too tight on my head. Instead of wearing out the earpads as I wait for it to relax naturally over time I bent the top of the headband frame in the center, then reduced the bend angle on the gymbals (the metal parts that hold the earcups). I imagine this will not likely be a problem in...
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