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Posts by samsquanch

do you have a multi meter that you can use to check continuity with?  I have a feeling you have your signal (tip and ring) on your TRS connected to the shields of your RCA's, which when plugged into your piece of gear would short them together and effectively sum the two channels, and if your shield lines on your trs are connected to the signal pins of your rca's it would also be inverting your signal, or putting it out of phase.   if this is the case, then I would...
  Do you have a picture of your 3.5mm connector with wires soldered to it?   Both rca grounds will be landed together on the sleeve of the trs, left signal wire will be soldered to the tip, and right to the ring.
Just showing off my new phono pre.  It's a hagerman bugle that I cased up myself, if you want to see pictures of the internals, read what's going on, and see the back you can look at my post in the diy builds thread:  http://www.head-fi.org/t/85561/post-pics-of-your-builds/8880#post_9088477   I forced myself to finish up this build this week, since with next friday's pay check I'm finally buying an SL1200 mkII, so excited, bring on the blizzards!   Maiden voyage...
  Hmm, just when I thought I was done...  I had been thinking about swapping the caps, I think I'll give your suggestion a shot when I get around to it.  (got a lot of records I'm jonesin to listen to)  Thanks     Thanks, I'm slowly losing my fear of wood work.   We have a bunch of the power out type laying around my shop, so I just snagged one of those.  If someone ever runs into my bedroom and tries to jam a power cord into the back of my preamp to power their death...
Finally finished my Hagerman Bugle phono pre, I had been using it in a battery powered setup for a while, which was fine, I really like the sound of this pre, but I hated changing batteries twice a month.  So I ordered the power supply board and built a box for it.  I am not a wood worker, I work with metal, I understand metal, it makes sense to me, wood on the other hand, well there's plenty of expletives I could use, but they'd all be censored, so I'll leave it at,...
  Short from signal to ground, no sound in that channel.   Short between the two signal wires, you'll have both channels combined, aka a summed mono signal.   Cold solder joint, it will show a slightly higher resistance than a proper solder joint, it will look dull as opposed to shiny, and if you have a magnifying glass you will see little fissures in the solder, it will also be brittle and likely to break under stress.   Using a multimeter, test for continuity between...
Improvements to a usb cable:   Gold plated connectors:  prevents oxidation of connector better than nickle coating.   Braided and foil shield:  better interference rejection   A choke that is appropriate to the signal frequencies being transmitted:  more interference rejection.   Beyond that, not really, and the reasons I listed are not going to improve sound, they'll merely prevent degradation in extreme cases, and even then, ehhhh....
It's likely the Monster Cable is using a braided shield, which is better at EMI rejection, which would be coming from power cables and switching power supplies.  Foil shields are good for blocking RF interference, and ok at EMI rejection.   Be cautious of being tricked by words like "audiophile."  Proper design with lesser (but still adequate) materials will always out perform poor design with better materials.   TL;DR Braided shields are better around power cables and...
  Your Monster cable probably has better shielding, what type of shield does the Parts Connexion cable have?  Foil or braided?  Are your interconnects near power cables or a power supply?  If so, move them away.
Powerviolence time.   F.O.T.B.   ********* Parade   Charles Bronson
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