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Posts by Ntropic

I don't suppose this would be of any help. http://anythingbutipod.com/2010/03/how-its-made-akg-k702-headphones/
lolidunno   I would imagine the headphone out on the SR605 would be amplified or you wouldn't hear anything. I couldn't tell you how much power the amplifier provides, or how nicely it'll amplify. That's for you to decide. It's up to you to decide what kind of amplifier you eventually want to build. Glass Jar Audio has PCBs for the SOHA II, EHHA, and Bijou designs from Cavalli as well. They're worth considering too, in addition to the AMB designs. A friend runs a...
Don't think it'll only cost you $250 for the amplifier. The little things will add up, and before you know it, you'll be over the $300 mark. Don't forget you have to pay for a power source; you get to pick between an all in one wall wart, or to build your own. Last time I checked, a s11 would run you $100 or so with the transformer itself. After all this, you might think to yourself it's a good idea to case the whole thing, and then you'll realize casework is going to be...
What? No mention for speakers? Not to mention all the power cables, filtering boxes, carbon fiber wall socket plates, and cable risers people tend to buy.
If you can find it, the Amphenol ACJS-MHD958 is a dual jack unit, with one for 1/8 and one for 1/4 output. It just uses two sets of pins, but it's cool to have it in one unit. Simple enough to wire up too. Mouser doesn't carry it anymore it'd seem, however. They still carry the MHDE though, which is dual 1/4.
Excuse me sir, but your headphone stand doesn't cost nearly enough for the headphones you will be putting on them, nor did you use superior premium exotic materials that are functionally identical to the materials you used. Prolonged usage of cheaper materials will degrade the sound quality of your headphone according to the equation:   Headphone quality, new = (Price, headphone stand/Price, expensive stand)*Headphone quality, original   The headphone stand price...
Wow, I don't know what to say. I'm going to go commit sudoku now. Completely forgot to check for a datasheet. Er, what direction is that diagram looking at the transformer from. The bottom?   When they say apply 115v across 6 and 5, that means a voltage difference of 115v across 6 and 5, meaning we got L on 6 (and 4), and N on 5 (and 3). I got that right, yeah? and the secondary side I don't have to change because of diodes. Beautiful sexy diodes. Strange how the dots on...
Gah, seriously? Now I feel sad. Just so we're clear, the phasing dots are on the middle two prongs. Don't I want current going in on those prongs?
Welp. Hooked up the transformer (not to the CK2III board, just the IEC outlet) and blew the fuse when I switched on the power. Changed the fuse, made sure ground had a connection, tried it again, same result. Ideas?   PS: Fastons are the worst things I have yet encountered, including working with 22 AWG wire, and soldering 18AWG wire onto the posts of a ACJS-MHDE (mouser part number) because the 22AWG kept breaking.
Don't know about your NYS231s, but mine have a shorter lug for left, longer for right, on the respective sides, and the big one for ground.
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