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Posts by piotrus-g

No, he's not the owner of the Anzu with Ei.xx low end (aka Amarok as per owner's wish).
Yup, don't be afraid to take time when pouring out material, make sure that shell is empty and then post cure it w/o glycerin, then put whole shell into glycerin, not just inside. After last curing rinse with water then with spray with isopropanol - you'll be good to go. Put dampers in the middle of tubing, no need to over-complicate it.Yes, one CI is working as fullrange and one with low pass. Cap on TWFK works as high-pass filter.
The first scheme is correct. Yes.The second would look like this: sorry for my paint skillsAs I mentioned before - no phase canceling with TWFK.Yup it's vented DTEC (High Output Dual Vented TEC ?) http://www.knowles.com/eng/Applications/Specialty-components/Hearing-aid-components/Balanced-Armature-Products datasheet: http://www.knowles.com/eng/content/download/5924/103192/version/7/file/Receiver+Datasheet+HODVTEC-31618-000.pdfYesThis graph is done in different conditions...
No, otherwise they would cancel TWFK and mess up the phase.I'm not sure I understood your questions completely so if I don't answer what you are asking about, feel free to ask more.1. Low pass is working for only one CI in the scheme above. You want both CI in the same polarity with each other. Otherwise they will cancel bass frequencies. You could definitely do:But I would design it differently - I would wire CI in series via low pass filter. FK section of TWFK in full...
Yes! + and - near the tap is the polarity of the driver and + and - near the wire is polarity of signal BTW. If you check where the CI pads are on my scheme or where the vent on TWFK is the scheme is pretty much easy - just make sure you positioned the back of the drivers for soldering as on my scheme, and you'll be good to go.
After first curing and pouring out uncured material, place it under UV for a 2-3min, then remove the shell from your negative form (avoid touching surface with fingers, use some tweezers) and then place it glycerin and then post-cure for 2-3more minutes. That should solve your problem and should leave no tacky residue.
OK guys,   here's the "cool" project... ("super cool" will have to wait till it's measured, because I don't want to put up something that doesn't work) The design below is quite easy (took me 5min to sketch and it's pretty much bullet proof if you wire it correctly - as in the picture).   First of all I figured if @pc27618349 is using GK why not reuse parts from it, and since the GK is using 22uF cap and the idea is for more neutral sound we can allow for higher...
haha, ok, i will think of something you could try out. Maybe do both "cool" and "super-cool" versions :)
How good do you feel with soldering? Do you have easy access to untypical value of caps? (mouser/digikey is enough but to some countries shipping costs a lot unless you're buying in large quantities).I will send you scheme just let me know what level of sophistication do you want, like: easy, normal, cool or super-cool :D
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