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Posts by jfunk

Hi There,             Here you go ;) I think this is what you are after  http://www.polaraudio.co.uk/DT770-Housing-Right-Side/product/979653/8DT7702DHOUSINGRIGHT/ and  http://www.polaraudio.co.uk/DT770-Left-Side-Housing/product/979661/8DT7702DHOUSINGLEFT/
you can use a standard 3.5mm jack in that socket as well as the locking ones - that hole in the middle is a normal 3.5mm jack (TRS) then it has a thread on the outside to use with the locking ones so any standard stereo 3.5mm jack will plug into that hole 
Yes you can fit standard jacks into these locking sockets. Here are links to where he got them fromhttp://cpc.farnell.com/pro-signal/psg08277/3-5mm-jack-skt-locking-stereo/dp/AV17487 http://cpc.farnell.com/pro-signal/psg08275/3-5mm-jack-plug-locking-stereo/dp/AV17485
Someone just send in some "well loved" DT990 with some locking 3.5mm jacks for us to fit - these look like an interesting option as well if you are worried about pulling the jack out but the socket also fits standard jacks as well  
I just got my DT 770 32 Ohms and I wanted to know more information about mass loading the drivers and damping. I was looking at this but am unsure as to what exactly this does. http://customcans.co.uk/s/s/index.php/acessories/beyerdynamic/dt770-mass-loading-mod.html   The idea is to give more bass detail with the extra mass and make them sound less boxy by absorbing the more of the sound coming off the back of the driver so less bounces back through. The kit was designed...
1 ) mini XLR in more secure and better for balanced but harder to fit2) Balanced cabling keeps the left and right channels completely separate which gives better stereo imaging and does seem to improve the SQ a little3) Should be alright but someone on here may have more experience of the 3.5mm sockets4) There are loads of options and it is probably worth checking out the DIY cable threads for opinions but good quality copper should do the trick without colouring the sound...
Just for a bit of an experiment I have given the T70 the balanced detachable treatment. Turns out the theory is basically the same. There is slightly more room for the XLR socket in them as they don't have the circular plastic ring that holds the damping that the DT770s have but the headband is trickier to pull apart as it has tiny plastic clips hidden away inside to release the ends.  
The wires are enamel coated so that is why you are probably not getting any sound - the enamel gets melted off when you solder - to solder them I normally place something under them to hold the pieces in place while they are joined and I found some 179 degrees C solder which so far has had 100% success rate. Repairs cost £54 http://en-uk.sennheiser.com/service-support-headphone-repair-monitoring but I have just noticed sennheiser have dropped the price of the earcups -...
Hi Deppard,                I have done quite a few of these operations - the voice coil is aluminium and it is best to use a temperature controlled solering iron and some low temperature aluminium solder... That way you don't melt the voice coil. Sennheiser do offer fixed priced repairs on the HD25 which costs a little less than replacing the earcup or if you are feeling entrepreneurial you could buy a cheapish pair off ebay and then re-sell the parts you don't need...
You can pick up the oyaide cables quite cheaply now which are pretty good. The stock cable is steel so even swapping to a >£10 Chinese one will give you a small improvement as they will mostly be made from standard copper or TPC but they probably would not last as long. Or if you are feeling adventurous you could build your self a nice braided one for a similar price to the oyaide ones but with better geometry - I'm sure there are loads of threads on that in the DIY section
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