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Posts by jfunk

You can pick up the oyaide cables quite cheaply now which are pretty good. The stock cable is steel so even swapping to a >£10 Chinese one will give you a small improvement as they will mostly be made from standard copper or TPC but they probably would not last as long. Or if you are feeling adventurous you could build your self a nice braided one for a similar price to the oyaide ones but with better geometry - I'm sure there are loads of threads on that in the DIY section
You may have left an air gap around the socket - that would act like a second bass port and increase the bass in that ear - just put hot glue or something all round the socket to block any holes
The only real difference is the cable - the HD25 have a 2m cable with a straight jack and HD25-1 has a 1.5m cable with a right angled jack. Both are still in production and up to mk II but if yours have black screws on the cable clamp it means they are the latest 2014 model. If you have silver screws then they are slightly older - the 2013 onwards ones have a small hologram sticker on the driver grille under the earpads. If you have silver screws and no hologram then they...
Hi Jacob,              The grill should just about clip back into place but you have to make sure the weight is stuck as far as it will go then press firmly around the centre of the grill to get it to clip in. Having said that we have had a couple of pairs where grill would not quite go back. The weights are made of quite soft lead and you can trim them down slightly with a craft knife or sturdy scissors. I was the one who originally designed and tested the kit and got the...
I had a pair of 250ohm DT770 knocking around the office that we were experimenting on and thought I would shoot a quick vid of the operation . Here I have used a 3 pin Mini XLR - I have used 2 seperate grounds - one on the chassis of the socket and one on pin one to make it possible to go balanced in the future. ( although 4 pin would be better for that ) When doing this mod you may find it easier and neater to solder the cables for the right earcup directly to the socket...
Have been fiddling with the process for a while but here is a top tip for getting digital images onto some headphones... inkjet water slide decal paper. Model makers use it for making custom decals and signs for model railways, planes etc - you can print the image on a standard inkjet printer - give it a coat of clear acrylic to stabilize it - then when you soak it in water the top layer with the ink on can be slid off onto your project. I found painting the headphones...
Dismantle the cupsSand them with 800 grit paper to give the paint something to key intowash off all the dust and swarf from sandingSpray with adhesion promoter or plastic primer automotive paint of your choice ( for one off jobs rattle cans shuld be fineClear coat or laquer to protect the paint work Here is a vid of how I do it but it is what I do for a living so it takes a while as I have to get things just right and they have to be durable enough to last for years 
They are available in the UK - I have already had a few sets but they are twice as  expensive as the standard pads at around £21 GBP - they are nice pads thoughIf you are on the lookout they are part number 556906 I believe
It looks like the HD25 have had a mini update. We have just had a new batch of HD25-1 mkII in and they have slightly different earcups. Not really noticable from the outside other than slightly more sheen to them. Inside you can see the are subtly different where the driver clips into the cup using similar clips to the ALU HD25 they also have not changed over from the silver phillips screws to hold in the cable clamp to the black T6 screws used on the ALU so they are not...
They turned out not to be too difficult to put back together although the soldering it a bit fiddly as they have lost of extra wires to support the dual sided entry. Here is a pic of the test pair I have done - I was not brave enough to paint the hinges but the rest of it went without any major issues  
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