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Posts by ClieOS

 Regular 3.5mm and coax are two different things - the former takes a regular analog signal (i.e. headphone-out or line-out) while the later takes a digital signal (= S/PDIF). An amplifier, by definition, only take analog signal and not digital signal. Therefore it is impossible for an amp to have a coax input. If you want to use a coax-input, you will need to use a DAC/amp. Never heard of an amp called 'cayenne 5' before. iBasso T5 has been discontinued for years now....
 From past experience, you should have a decade or two to save up
 E12A is fine with most full size. Based on spec, HD600 shouldn't be a problem as well - though I can't tell you how good the combo will be as I don't own HD600. In comparison, O2 will have more power than E12A. But in the case of HD600, they should both have more than enough.
 You can buy the real PK3. Don't bother with those 'DIY' Yuin driver as they are most certainly fake.
  RM1 and AM5.   Impression so far: RM1 just works as advertised, though I do hope the tiny on/off switch on the back can be bigger or at least easier to access as it has to be popped out from the rubber slate / holder to turn it off.   Listened for the AM5 for half an hours now. I can tell it has a slightly drier tone than AM2, but otherwise fairly similar overall. The slight dryness no doubt comes from TPA6120A2 (the buffer chip) as it does tend to sound slight...
 Neutrik / Rean - not expensive and good build quality, and available in many places. Don't buy electrical supply on Amazon, get them from digikey, Mouser, or Newark.
 Sony WMC-NWH10. It is an official Sony accessories and you can find it on many places.
 There are quite a few balanced connector out there: Pono / Sony (dual 3.5mm TRS), A&K (2.5mm TRRS), Hifiman (3.5mm TRRS), RSA/ALO (Kobiconn), mini XLR, and the latest - JEITA's 4.4mm TRRRS, which is a totally Japanese's thing as I have no idea why they also want to reinvent the wheel. I don't think trying to include every version of cable is feasible. Probably not even every adapter. However, A&K probably has the upper hand when it comes to number of user out there.
 Not that I don't like it, I just don't find it special in any way. If given the choice, I am probably more inclined to get JH Rosie or JH13 Pro over KSE1500. By all mean KSE1500 is a really good IEM, it just isn't a really good electrostatic because it doesn't quite showcase the openness that electrostatics is known for (but in fact has a close-in sound). That might be fine for others, but it is a total turn-off for me. There is no reason to go for an electrostatics when...
iFi Audio iTube.
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