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Posts by Edoardo

So stay there and be happy    You already have a good soundcard, cheap or half-portable amps are not going to be a deal. For real improvements or changes you should go for a big thing, tubes or professional-orientend... But if you don't want your sound to be nor more detailed nor more colored, there's no point in going there.  
Actually the ESI Juli@ has been recognized by many as a card with a great clock and digital out     In this review here it beats 7 other cards...   http://www.theabsolutesound.com/magazines/2011/5/213/       "For this reviewer, the ESI Juli@ is the first computer music source component “to succeed in forsaking sonic artifacts. In fact it does more."   Then yes, you know, when a products is tweakable then it seems that tweaking it is the only way...
OK so the plenty of professionals who have always suggested and preferred and used PCI over anything should read a forum sponsorized by SoTM and dCS who sell USB converters for a living...
An active preamplifier and an headphone amplifier aren't much different, technically, but the headphone section of a standard preamplifier or integrated amplifier may not "share" the same circuit of the preamplifier itself: there may be just a cheap "digital" card behind that headphone out.   Buy the way there are also headphone amps that feature a pre-amp output for controlling a power amp or a pair of amplified speakers
Again... Source? I've never read this thing of the "USB superiority" (???) anywhere
Ehm... source???   USB seem not to be a convenient choice, since you would have to deal with the 5V power supply section, energy saving crap and polling settings for optimal results... 
Hi again,   Well, It seems you already have spent your budget in headphones!    I can suggest you a DAC+amp combo such as the ONIX DAC 25A or the AudioGD NFB-12 or something like that. They do support USB 24/96, even if not asynchronously.      A cheap DAC featuring asynchronous 24/96 USB technology is the Arcam rDAC. It also playbacks 88.2 files through USB, and 176.4 and 192KHz files through coaxial.   Then the Schiit Bifrost, very well-regarded here,...
I am not very keen in Blu-Ray ripping.   To HiAudio, since you are using Windows I can suggest EAC as ripping software.    I'd rip them in FLAC, without any loss of quality. A CD has a 16bit/44.1KHz resolution. For storage, going to SSD is not necessary IMHO. An "old" external HDD is fine.
I was thinking about something like the RME HDSP 9632 or the ESI Juli@, which are much cheaper. you can built a great music server around those, without the USB jitter and (morover) power supply issues!    The Bryston BDP-1 indeed is built around a tweaked ESI Juli@ ...   Lynx jitter higher than USB out? where?
I agree  It's a computer with an ESI Juli@ and a couple of very nice tweaks though! I can't tweak a soundcard and build a PSU myself, so... It'd be my choiche
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