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Posts by earthpeople

Brand new, sealed in box. I was digging through my stuff and apparently I had bought an extra CCK a while back and forgot about it.    $22, I'll eat shipping (CONUS) and PayPal fees.
My stock cables did not have any markings on them. What makes you suspicious about them besides that? In general, I haven't heard much about fake T1s either.
Got the LCD-XC a little bit ago. The headphones are in great shape, no weird smells or anything either. Going to spend some time listening later tonight.   Thanks again for the opportunity, Justin!
So basically this technology can get us truly portable electrostats? This is very interesting, as even the in-ears that STAX makes require a compatible amp. I also wonder how much the quality will improve once it is optimized. Definitely going to read through their paper later today.
If you aren't doing anything that would expose you to potential dangers and you like XP, I would say just stick with it.  Otherwise, you'll probably have to explore the wide world of Linux! I don't have experience with any distros for dedicated music playback, but I don't think it would be hard to find one that checks the requirements you listed.   cel4145: looks like he's already got an SSD in this computer.
The stock pads are actually angled. 
20% off, IIRC. 
Here is exactly what you'll see when you remove the stock TRS plug: http://i.imgur.com/a3BRKfI.jpg This is my own stock T1 cable which I have reterminated with a 4-pin XLR and later replaced completely.   Two conducting wires and cable shield per side. The point of the shield in a balanced configuration is purely to reduce interference and so I would not connect it with any of the pins. Each pin and the conductor associated with it carries an active signal -- all four...
There are two conductors and shield for each side. You'll use the conductors as + and -, and you can connect the shield to the connector chassis. They don't carry any signal so it doesn't really matter if you connect the two shield bundles. Just make sure you have your 4 conductors all clearly separated and not in contact with any other wire. 
There should be a gap between the two solder pads and it looks like they've been connected. I circled it in this picture; http://i.imgur.com/3L4apry.jpg Try cleaning up that area and then soldering your wires to the spots marked with the blue squares.
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