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Today's Featured Head-Fi Blog: A Japanese headfier's monologue (Sasaki)
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I just received a couple of Clairefontaine A5 notebooks (Age Bag and Matris Soft Cover), an A4 notepad and a Rhodia A4 notepad.
The Clairefontaine A4 notepad has the smoothest surface I have ever touched. Clairefontaine uses the same g/m2 paper (90g/m2) in their A5 notebooks, but it isn't as smooth as the A4 pads.
The Rhodia A4 notepad uses a slightly lighter 80g/m2 and the differences are easily palpable. It's not quite as smooth and feels noticeably lighter-weight, not unlike the supposedly heavier-weight 90g/m2 paper found in the Clairefontaine notebooks.
I haven't really written on any of the pads, but anyhow, the Clairefontaine A4 notepad has some truly exquisite-feeling paper. Unfortunately, neither the Matris Soft Cover or Age Bag are decent enough replacements for the Moleskines I use on a daily basis. They don't feel as robust and don't have enough pages. The paper quality is a lot better than that found in Moleskines. I hate how the quality of the paper varies so much. I got a brand new Moleskine Large Lined Notebook just yesterday and it feathers more than my previous one! Maybe I should stick to the Sketchbooks, which have much thicker, bleed-free, feather-free pages.
Since making the switch to writing exclusively with fountain pens, it's been rather frustrating to find high performance notebooks. As far as notepads are concerned, the Clairefontaine and Rhodia are unbeatable.
Personally, I like Rhodia paper better than Clairefontaine because, to me, it writes better. While the above Mead notebook certainly does not compare to either Rhodia or CF, it's pretty darned good for its price. Its main shortcoming is that it writes a little wider than it should but there isn't any feathering or bleedthrough.
Have you seen Noodler's new Bay State Blue? It might be what you're looking for. I'm thinking about getting a bottle. I go back and forth between their Ottoman Azure and the Legal Lapis. I like both, but an electric blue might be fun for a change.
I used to love the old Waterman ink before they changed the formulation. I even liked the distinctive smell it had. I'd get a bottle of the violet, blue/black and black, then mix them 1:1:1. It'd have a nice, slightly faded look when dry. But I've moved away from the darker inks because of work. With so many photocopies, PDFs, etc., etc., the best way to tell an original from a copy is an obviously blue signature. The Bay State Blue would be pretty good for that.
I have the Noodler's Luxury Blue, which looks almost fluorescent in the bottle and converter, but on paper it's much more desaturated. It's a nice color, just not very dark.
I really love the Manhattan Black. Barely any darker pooling ends, it's pretty consistently black.
So far, my cheapo Calypso Rollerballs are working great with the Noodler's Inks. I've been keeping them in the open, not in a ziplock baggie to see how they hold up. So far so good with casual use every other day or so.
I just received my Pelikan M200, Cross Townsend Medalist, Ampad Gold Fibre Journal, and PR American Blue, Lake Placid Blue and Velvet Black.
Unfortunately, I have two problems. I regret getting an M nib on the Townsend because it makes my letters so large that I need to increase the spacing between everything. Secondly, the M200's nib feels scratchy. I'm not sure if that is the correct term though. Everytime, I write it feels like I am writing on a rough surface, even though the Townsend is relatively smooth on the same page.
No pics unfortunately because my camera is unable to zoom or macro without increasing the amount of noise in the pictures.
I just received my Pelikan M200, Cross Townsend Medalist, Ampad Gold Fibre Journal, and PR American Blue, Lake Placid Blue and Velvet Black.
Unfortunately, I have two problems. I regret getting an M nib on the Townsend because it makes my letters so large that I need to increase the spacing between everything. Secondly, the M200's nib feels scratchy. I'm not sure if that is the correct term though. Everytime, I write it feels like I am writing on a rough surface, even though the Townsend is relatively smooth on the same page.
No pics unfortunately because my camera is unable to zoom or macro without increasing the amount of noise in the pictures.
Hmmm... that's put me off getting a fine nib for my M600. I find the M nib too bold. If you don't mind waiting for a couple of months, send it to one of the many reputable pen repairers. Either that or learn how to smooth your own nibs.
I don't think I could stand the wait. I emailed Chartpak, hopefully the exchange will be perfect the first time. Sometime, way down the line, I do plan to order an adjusted 14k Fine nib from Richard Binder, as well as a specialty nib.
Atleast, I am slowly beginning to like the M nib of the Townsend, although the heft with the cap posted is a little much. I find it odd that it doesn't start with the first stroke unlike the Pelikan though. It will skip the first stroke, then the ink flow from then on is great.
Just a quick question:
How would one go about packaging a nib to be sent for exchange?
I was thinking of just wrapping it in alot of bubble wrap and placing it in a padded envelope. However, I have a feeling USPS would completely destroy it.