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Today's Featured Head-Fi Blog: A Japanese headfier's monologue (Sasaki)
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It's more of a "specialist" lens for me. But I can get some very nice artsy shots with it. Otherwise it's just too soft for me most of the time wide open.
-Ed
Remember, if you don't like it, you can always send it to Australia and give it to me.
Hurry up, they will be out of stock very very soon.
-Ed
No kidding, they're already gone!
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UNCLE ERIK Vinyl, Tubes & Grado
Orbe SE -> SME IV -> Fi Yph -> Zana Deux/Si2A3
RS-1, HP-2, HF-1, K-1000, K-701, K-501, K-340, K-240DF, HD-650, HD-600, HD-414, DT48, DT880, MDR-SA5000, ATH-6, Aperio Alpha
I still have immense amounts to learn about my D50 still :P Went to Autosalon today and took some shots. So many were blurred T_T I tried my best not to use the flash as i like the natural light more, but i had to up the ISO to 800-1600. How do you guys usually deal with getting sharper shots without a flash when zooming (18-135).
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Meizu M6 || Laptop || Ipod Classic 80gb -> LDM+ (for sale if anyone wants) -> K81DJ || CX300
Previously used:
30g Ipod Vid *Now dead due to ONE LITTLE DROP*
I still have immense amounts to learn about my D50 still :P Went to Autosalon today and took some shots. So many were blurred T_T I tried my best not to use the flash as i like the natural light more, but i had to up the ISO to 800-1600. How do you guys usually deal with getting sharper shots without a flash when zooming (18-135).
You're going to have to go with a smaller apeture number then. More wide open = more light getting through the lens, but more shallow depth of field. If you have to shoot wide open, (f/1.4 - f/2), it helps to compose your shots so that the subject is more flat, and not foreshortened, that way more of your subject will be in focus.
That way your shutter speed can be higher, to avoid motion blur.
*edit, I wasn't paying attention to your lens type. I'm assuming it's not a VR lens, and will be at around f/5.6 at the longest zoom end? You will need more light. If you are not getting the results you want at 1600 ISO, you will either need to be shooting something stationary with a tripod/monopod for assistance or look into getting a faster lens.
I'm most definitely going to need a flash. I'm debating between the tiny SB-400 or the more capable SB-600.
My need to take horizontal format portraits is less common than needing to travel light. Getting the 18-200mm VR pretty much nixes the whole travelling light thing, but it would be the only lens I could bring and perhaps the SB-400 as well, since it really does not add much bulk and weight. Well, what the hell, why not pack the 50mm f/1.8 too, it's so small, LOL. OK, I need a new bag to carry my gear now.
Meh, I recently got a 18-70 to replace my 18-55 (wanted the extra zoom and non-rotating front element), and now I'm trying to sell my 18-55 + 55-200 and to get a 70-300 Sigma APO Macro, but I'm beginning to realise that a disproportionately large amount of my photos come out with shake blur. Should I sell everything and save for a 18-200? I don't know if I'm willing to accept the drop in sharpness (when the camera ain't shaking that is) and increase in distortion at the wide and tele extremes
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