Support Head-Fi.org by
starting all of your
Amazon.com shopping by
clicking here.
____________________________________________________________________
Today's Featured Head-Fi Blog: A Japanese headfier's monologue (Sasaki)
____________________________________________________________________
Please help
support Head-Fi by becoming a Contributing Member
CLICK
HERE -- Contributing Members, thank you
for your generous support! --
Yeah maybe a proper cabinet is the way to go, but I really can't get it at the moment. It will be on the to buy list though.
Hey by the way, has anyone got some sample pictures or link to sample pictures that show the difference of taking pictures with and without lens hood? I don't mean the difference like the obvious flares, but more like colour/contrast difference.
EDIT: I just found this thread. Does anyone know what kind of microwaveable beef stew was he talking about? I don't think we have this in Sydney, is this an American product?
Got nothing to do and was browsing dpreview. Came accross this portrait.
And really, holy crap, this is probably one of the best portraits I've seen produced with 50mm 1.8. I know the cute little girl really helps, and the image is for sure had been post-processed, but look at the portrait as an overall, that's excellent work.
*Image belongs to Markus Arike. This is his flickr page.
PS: Dimitri: When using your 85mm for portrait, what aperture do you use most often? I've noticed mine has been pretty much wide open most of the time, and rarely 2 or 2.8. I much prefer the "feel" that the wide open shot brings. I wonder if this is just me or it's happening to other 85mm users as well.
Yeah, I'm wondering if Nikon 12-24 is worth the extra over the Tokina , but equal number of people saying one of them is better than the other. Then there's that distortion issue at 12mm. Also I was thinking about it for group photos while being close. Like maybe 2m away for a group of 5 for example. Because of the f4 I would need flash indoors?
Yeah, I'm wondering if Nikon 12-24 is worth the extra over the Tokina , but equal number of people saying one of them is better than the other. Then there's that distortion issue at 12mm. Also I was thinking about it for group photos while being close. Like maybe 2m away for a group of 5 for example. Because of the f4 I would need flash indoors?
Do you Photoshop? If so, and since you're working primarily at the wide (12mm end), I would get the Tokina. If you're not going to be correcting either the complex Nikkor "mustache distortion" at 12mm or the less complex barrel type on the Tokina and you can afford it, take advantage of the better Nikkor Sharpness at 24 and 35mm.
Yup, a flash will many times be necessary, but will experience light fall-off at the wide ends.
Not to confuse the decision, but I would also consider the Sigma 10-20. This is a very unique lens that has a great following, and is not as expensive as the Nikkor 12-24.
Keep in mind that you can use the Nikkor 12-24 on 35mm or FF bodies (w/o filter), but not with the Sigma 10-20 or Tokina 12-24.
Befor you say, "oh I'll never use film again," take a moment and realize that there are many applications, including infrared photography where you may just! Good luck with your decision...
So anyone knows what beff soup cup was that guy talking about (from my previous post)?
I'll be grateful if someone can buy it and post it for me. I'll pay you for that of course. And you can eat the beef.
DJ, you want to put this on the end of that beautiful lens? That thread was archived and really didn't give any more details; although I can send you some DInty Moore if that's what you want!
lol I'm not even sure if those are the ones he was talking about. Can't he even mention the brand...
Anyway, about that paper one, the problem is, I'm not sure if I can fit in my lens cap without removing the hood first, and it looks like it's designed for AFR version, which is 77mm.
I'm very happy with my HN-20 (the original lens hood for the lens), but the problem is I can't fit my lens cap with the hood on.
I called some shops, and none of them actually have a screw-in 72mm rubber lens hood that I can actually put a cap on the hood as well. I can't it's so hard to find a lens hood. Is it also that hard to find in US?
I'll look for some more shops this weekend, if I can't find any, I'll probably have to either not use the lens hood or create my own ghetto lens cap to fit on the hood.
And I still can't believe I'm actually paying 30 bucks for a lens cap that I might not use at all... Anyone wanna buy 72mm original Nikon lens cap?
EDIT:
Found this on ebay. 50mm 1.2. Looks like it's in very good condition (although I haven't asked the seller and he didn't mention much). AUS$500 buy it now. Not noct, but I think AUS$500 is reasonable if it's in near mint. And I'm sure this is one of the lenses that he will regret selling.
Anyway, about that paper one, the problem is, I'm not sure if I can fit in my lens cap without removing the hood first, and it looks like it's designed for AFR version, which is 77mm.
I'm very happy with my HN-20 (the original lens hood for the lens), but the problem is I can't fit my lens cap with the hood on.
Have you tried just getting a plastic lid for the lens hood itself?
Originally Posted by dj_mocok
Found this on ebay. 50mm 1.2. Looks like it's in very good condition (although I haven't asked the seller and he didn't mention much). AUS$500 buy it now. Not noct, but I think AUS$500 is reasonable if it's in near mint. And I'm sure this is one of the lenses that he will regret selling.
Nice find, as usual, very clean! The problem is that I want it for surveillance photography (shoot wide open), but this may be the closest I'll come...thanks
Check this one out. This is serious stuff man, and yes, the noct is among them.
But seller got 0 feedback and only joined a couple of days ago, so I would be very careful if I wanted to get this.
Maybe escrow or something. But if it was me, I'd probably fly there to pick it up.
, but equal number of people saying one of them is better than the other. Then there's that distortion issue at 12mm. Also I was thinking about it for group photos while being close. Like maybe 2m away for a group of 5 for example. Because of the f4 I would need flash indoors? 
That thread was archived and really didn't give any more details; although I can send you some DInty Moore if that's what you want!
