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That makes sense. Does the polariser make the lens hood redundant? I'm wondering whether a 77mm filter would fit on my lens w/ lens hood (67mm).
I see. I'm thinking of the Sigma 100-300, which has had numerous positive reviews backed by rather impressive technical specs. It's a slower F4 though, but performs better in MTF charts than Sigma's own but much more expensive F2.8 120-300. It's less than $800 new in Hong Kong and also has a nicer looking MTF chart than the AF 80-200 2.8D.
Of course, the Sigma was at F4, so maybe the Nikon measures considerably better when stopped to F4 too...
I think the key is indeed in the larger maximum aperture of the Nikon. With that said, the performance of my 80-200 isn't at all consistent across the range, and based on sample shots, I can say that the Sigma likely outperforms the Nikon at 200mm - even at comparable apertures. It is a bit scary thinking of sample variation, however.
__________________ Main Rig: Kenwood DP-1100II CDP -> Heath AP-2510 Preamplifier -> MAD EAR+ HD -> Grado RS-1's Photo-Fi: Nikon D200 - 35mm f/2D - 85mm f/1.8D - 80mm-200mm f/2.8D
Nevertheless, I'm still trying to come to terms with the whole "filters" business. It seems that Hoya are a popular brand? My dad's lens came with a 'free' Hoya UV filter.
i love hoya filters, great prices and even their entry level filters are coated.
hey, thought i would drop in, new to the forums, i have a nikon d70s with 18-200mm lens, nikon n80 with my kit 118-55mm lens, and another old nikon prime 50mm f2.4 lens
Well the obvious answer is lens hood, but when you shoot like that, I doubt lens hood will totally eliminate all. But flare also depends on the type of lens too - some lens are more prone to flare than others.
When you shoot into the sun like that, the flare / ghosting just depends on the lens equipment. Be careful of your eyes and sensor.
If you demand that angle / perspective and don't NEED the sun in the picture, either wait for some clouds, or a different time of day when the sun is not in the image.
Headphoneus Supremus: Loyal member of Team Useful Post.
Moderate speed prime lenses tend to flare less than zoom lenses. I could be wrong, but that type of ghost looks like it is from a consumer zoom lens -- lots of elements, no fancy exotic glasses or coatings designed to reduce flare. Also, make sure you are not using a filter on your lens. Filters really can increase flare, and ghosting in particular. In this sort of situation, the only thing that will truly save you is a well designed lens. You would be better off with the prime 20mm or 24mm.
Thanks guys. A "consumer lens" indeed - 18-70. I'm using a lens hood, but they're obviously useless if you're shooting straight into the sun.
Now I need some other advice:
I'm going to a friend's birthday party tonight. It's probably going to be quite dim, but I don't have, won't be able to obtain and don't know how to use an external flash. The whole event is very casual and just a typical university piss-up/get-together, but I don't want to miss any notable moments. I'm particularly worried about the lack of lighting and most likely me over-compensating with the pop-up flash. I'm not a great fan of flash as I find it very anti-social. Any suggestions? Methinks high ISO 800-1600, shutter faster than 1/60 and flash when needed... Meanwhile I'm going to read the camera manual's "Flash Photography" section
...but I don't have, won't be able to obtain and don't know how to use an external flash.
Give Calumet Photographic a call. There's one in Edinburgh and they should be able to help you out. You can rent lenses, batteries, flashes, etc. for your D300. One thing is that you'll need a deposit for full replacement value of the equipment or insurance to cover any damage, loss, or theft. They'll show you the basics on how to use the equipment as well.
__________________
Audio Setup: iTunes on Power Mac G4 > ESI Juli@ > Blue Jeans Cable LC-1 > Corda Arietta > HD650; Apple Pro Speakers w/ iSub
Photo Gear: Canon 40D w/ battery grip, 24mm f/1.4L USM, 70-200 f/2.8L USM, Speedlite 580EXII