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This is quite true, but I don't see how it relates to the 70-200 vs. 80-200 debate. VR is meant to gain F-Stops by decreasing shutter speed, and a tripod will only be useful (with a moving subject) so long as there remains enough light to maintain high-shutter speeds.
Please note that the primary focus of my original post, which you did not quote, was my own experience and satisfaction with the Nikkor 70-200/f 2.8 VR lense. I don't believe any other comments in response to Nick's question evidence any such experience. Only later did I try to present the telephoto shutter rule of thumb.
VR reduces "shake" motion, one of two causes of lack of image sharpness (the other being focus). Shake motion is literally magnified by lense length. The extra stops gained by the 70-200/f 2.8 optically and by VR can be used however the photographer elects in creating the image. Good braced hand holding, monopods and tripods are never used enough for their benefits to image sharpness and quality. And neither, in this day of automatic exposure and zoom lenses, is proper awareness of lense length and shutter speed. The VR and optical brightness just make for a lense more tolerant of the photographer's oversights. VR or no, it's always relevant.
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Doing my duty . . . . the way I see it.
"The trouble with most people is not what they don't know, but what they know for certain that isn't true."
Mark Twain
One of my thoughts is that people were able to take great photographs without VR for 50+ years...and without it, maybe it will make me learn my craft better and not have to rely on technology.
It's not a contest to see how stripped down and "manual" you can shoot. VR technology doesn't make you lazy. It makes it possible to capture shots quickly that would have required setting up a tripod in the old days. I've still got my old F3. I could go back to old school technology if I wanted. The dust on the camera bag tells how much I want to.
It's not a contest to see how stripped down and "manual" you can shoot. VR technology doesn't make you lazy. It makes it possible to capture shots quickly that would have required setting up a tripod in the old days. I've still got my old F3. I could go back to old school technology if I wanted. The dust on the camera bag tells how much I want to.
That's true, but you've obviously learned the "harder" way, already. Someone just starting out and gets used to creating some good shots by relying on all the auto functions may never bother to learn the basics .... which are still important if you want to excel. I've found that technology can ( not always of course ) make people, including myself, lazy. Yes, it can speed up the process, and sometimes even save the day by giving acceptable/good/excellent results quicker with less effort, but I've found that things like autofocus and autoexposure for example, can make you lazy and sloppy at times....because you might feel you're covered by technology and therefore don't even have to think at all about focus or exposure....just shoot like mad and see what happens. Next thing you know, you're relying on auto-everything and you've turned into a rapid point and shooter and forget about the subtlties that create above average photographs...photographs where the photographer knows in advance what he's trying to achieve and technically knows how to achieve it. I realize the argument is that these auto functions free up your time to concentrate on other things like framing the shot, but if they lull you into forgetting about lighting, depth of field, and even taking the time to brace the camera and softly hit the shutter (who needs to, I've got VR) ... chances are you'll get lazy on the other things as well.
When I used to shoot weddings outside for example, a tripod wasn't necessary. Not using one would have saved lugging it around, and the time it took to set it up. On the other hand however, by slowing me down a little, it gave me more time to think about the shot, and it allowed me to frame the shot(s) properly, level, and consistantly each time. I could look away and even walk away from the viewfinder, scan the scene with both eyes for posing, distracting background and foreground objects, give the subjects directions, bracket the shot, etc., as often as required without having to re-compose and re-focus the shot each time. Again, I agree that being able to stretch that exposure with VR without having to use a tripod can definitely be beneficial in certain situations, but my fear would be that a novice photographer may never bother to use a tripod or even have one with him ... just in case ... because he's under the impression it's not required with a VR lens. Just my opinion of course.
While I'm arguing the negative side of VR, ( and I know there's a positive side) I should mention that it also becomes one more thing you might forget about while shooting ... either not having it turned on when you need it, or having it on when you don't. Also, VR drains the battery much quicker than normal.
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Shopping tip: You can get shoes for a buck at bowling alleys.
For me the choice between the 70-200 vr and 80-200 af-d comes down to AF-S vs. AF-D not "VR". I need the faster focus speed of the 70-200 using AF-S technology instead of the screw driven AF-D. I know the faster focus is going to make a big difference in my sports shooting. That is the ONLY reason I'm saving up to upgrade from my 80-200.
I would also consider upgrading to a 80-200/2.8AF-S if I can find one used at a good price...
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FOR SALE *** EMU 0404 USB ***
Please note that the primary focus of my original post, which you did not quote, was my own experience and satisfaction with the Nikkor 70-200/f 2.8 VR lense. I don't believe any other comments in response to Nick's question evidence any such experience. Only later did I try to present the telephoto shutter rule of thumb.
VR reduces "shake" motion, one of two causes of lack of image sharpness (the other being focus). Shake motion is literally magnified by lense length. The extra stops gained by the 70-200/f 2.8 optically and by VR can be used however the photographer elects in creating the image. Good braced hand holding, monopods and tripods are never used enough for their benefits to image sharpness and quality. And neither, in this day of automatic exposure and zoom lenses, is proper awareness of lense length and shutter speed. The VR and optical brightness just make for a lense more tolerant of the photographer's oversights. VR or no, it's always relevant.
Of course, of course. I misinterpreted the purpose of your post.
__________________ Main Rig: Kenwood DP-1100II CDP -> Heath AP-2510 Preamplifier -> MAD EAR+ HD -> Grado RS-1's Photo-Fi: Nikon D200 - 35mm f/2D - 85mm f/1.8D - 80mm-200mm f/2.8D
Do AF-S lens speed up with pro bodies? I'm wondering if if they do not so much then as bodies get stronger and stronger, then a AF-D lens could get close to the equivalent lens with AF-S in speed?
AF-S lenses have an internal motor which is faster and quieter than the camera's motor. D lenses don't have their own motor, so rely on the motor in the camera. I believe the pro Nikon bodies have better ( stronger ) internal motors than the consumer versions, so are a little quicker, but AF-S lenses are always the fastest. The ability of the camera's autofocus sensors also come into play, as the better the sensor, the less searching the lens does while focussing ... making it also focus faster.
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Shopping tip: You can get shoes for a buck at bowling alleys.
Do AF-S lens speed up with pro bodies? I'm wondering if if they do not so much then as bodies get stronger and stronger, then a AF-D lens could get close to the equivalent lens with AF-S in speed?
It also has a lot to do with the weight of the optics and distance of the focus path. A 50 f/1.8 lens, for example, will likely focus faster than an AF-S macro lens simply because the former has very few elements and a comparatively short minimum focusing distance. When comparing apples to apples, however, I think an AF-S lens will almost always be faster than an AF-D lens; regardless of the strength of the camera's motor.
__________________ Main Rig: Kenwood DP-1100II CDP -> Heath AP-2510 Preamplifier -> MAD EAR+ HD -> Grado RS-1's Photo-Fi: Nikon D200 - 35mm f/2D - 85mm f/1.8D - 80mm-200mm f/2.8D
Headphoneus Supremus: Videographus Supremus: Makes audio cables using super-advanced materials, like "some clear tape" and "some not so clear tape."
Not all AF-S are made the same either. I find my 55-200VR pretty slow. I guess that's why it's a cheap lens.
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lan's Head-Fi International Meet 2008 "CanJam" High Definition Videos! are here
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My advice to you:
- Use your own ears as everybody's hearing and preferences are different.
- Try to audition as much equipment as possible to find your sound.
- Buy used to save money.