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Get a D50 and an 18-70mm(or an 18-135mm) and or prime like a 50mm 1.8 or 35mm f2. Use the zoom to figure out what focal lengths you'll mostly be using. Once you get a feel for what lengths you shoot, you can get a lens specifically suited for that length. I think the prime is nice to have just because of the optical quality, and the experience had when using a fixed focal length.
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Thanks for the advice guys. I have a pretty good idea which focal lengths I need and the 18-200 covers 90% of those. I would get a 35mm prime for portraits and close-ups (incredible photo Towert7).
My room mate back in high school had a D70 with kit 18-70 and the 'bog standard' 70-300. Actually, it took very decent photos.
This photo was taken back in 2006 (when I actually had no idea about white balance, aperture, shutter speed, DOV, etc, ie a point and shoot shot or spray and pray) with his D70/18-70.
Has anyone compared the normal 70-300 to the VR 70-300mm? The normal one sells for around the same price as the 50mm F/1.8 while the VR is around the $500 mark.
I love my 70-300vr. Sure it's not the 70-200vr 2.8 I wanted but it was a third the price and offers great performance for what I do. It's tack sharp up to 200mm and pretty sharp all the way out to 300mm, there's little to no distortion at the wide nor the long end, and most important to me, there's little to no CA at any focal length. I don't think it was worth the $650 I paid (Ripped by Ritz of course but I needed it that weekend. ) when it first came out but for the $450-550 prices they go for used and new, it's hard to beat. Its too slow for most people in low light but if you don't mind boosting up the ISO, you can still take good shots in pretty low lighting conditions, so long as you do some PP.
My only problems with this lens so far has been that at 300mm it can mis-focus sometimes; its a pain but I usually shoot the same photo 3-4 times anyway and usually at least two of those are properly focused. Just something to keep in mind though, wasn't a deal breaker for me but might be for you. For daylight shooting its a great deal and a killer lens but if you're shooting say basketball games or some other fast moving, low light situation, you might want to look into the 80-200 2.8 Nikkor or one of the 70-200 2.8 offerings from Sigma or Tamron.
I have the most basic version of the Nikon 70-300mm. For the price it is a real nice lens, but it is bested by the newer ones. My old one has a fair amount of chromatic aberration. The lack of VR makes it harder to take pictures, especially at the long end (needing 1/500 of a second or faster for consistent results).
Short of getting the 80-200mm or 70-200VR, your best bet is the 70-300mm VR. And, you get an extended range (200-300 range). The old one is quite lite, but the newer one is a fair amount heavier and longer. Still, I would recommend it, especially for 480$ new.
Great info! I wasn't aware of the old and new VR version. So the new one is VRII right?
Chromatic aberration is a new term for me. Having looked up the definition on wikipedia, I don't seem to have this problem with the 18-200, or maybe I just don't know what to look out for. How do you distinguish between CA and just blurring?
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My advice to you:
- Use your own ears as everybody's hearing and preferences are different.
- Try to audition as much equipment as possible to find your sound.
- Buy used to save money.
Great info! I wasn't aware of the old and new VR version. So the new one is VRII right?
Chromatic aberration is a new term for me. Having looked up the definition on wikipedia, I don't seem to have this problem with the 18-200, or maybe I just don't know what to look out for. How do you distinguish between CA and just blurring?
There are at least 3 versions of the Nikon 70-300. There is the oldest, 70-300G, the newer 70-300 ED, and the newest, 70-300VR.
Chromatic aberration refers to incorrect colors recorded by the camera due to the lens. Purple, green, and blue fringing are all examples of this.
I just recieved the 60mm afs micro nikkor at work and my first impression is "SHARP!"
I'm planning on taking some flower shots with it this Thursday. So far, so good.
Here's the first test shot I took:
This was shot at f8 in a studio with 2 versalight 500's. I shot a few inches away from the flower.
Last edited by bloodydoorknob; 04-08-2008 at 09:10 PM.
) with his D70/18-70.
) when it first came out but for the $450-550 prices they go for used and new, it's hard to beat. Its too slow for most people in low light but if you don't mind boosting up the ISO, you can still take good shots in pretty low lighting conditions, so long as you do some PP. 
