What iMod cable if i buy one?

[GiR]

I'm sure to alot of you this will seem like a very simple question, but what is the difference between the different iMod cables available to use on the 5.5 iMods?

I currently have an iBasso D1 on its way to me that I will be hooking up to my PC for use at home, I was going to go portable with it and use ti at the pc when at home, using a h120/140 but mine broke. I can either get a new one of those (which could take any amount of time to find one and get it on ebay, plus prices are always rising) or get an imod.

The issue comes when I look on the ALO site, the iMod is 450 dollars, which is a very nice price for a brand new one, but then the option of the dock comes into it. There are 3 in the 100-150 dollar ish range and to be completely honest I have no idea which would be more suitable for me. Is it worth the extar 55 dollars for the Jumbo Cryo X Silver, or is the 22G Cryo iMod Cable a much better deal at just 100?

For what it matters I would most likely rockbox it, as I prefered it on my old iriver, would be using lossless and playing through either the D1 amp or getting something else (possibly a Move) as the amp alone, when not running through its internal dac on the d1 is supposed to be its weak point, and using Grado sr-321i's, listening to mostly metal.

I'm still not 100% decided on getting an iMod, hoping to get a bit of insight into it all from this thread.

[manaox2]

I personally choose the super cotton because I wanted more speed, but it is said to still be fairly warm. It really depends. If you want it to be pocketable, then I would recommend the cryo x silver for the best sound. If you want more detail and don't mind the size and flexibility issue, I guess I would recommend the super cotton. I myself only own an regular ALO cryo dock and an iMod ALO super cotton.

Since I combine silver cables with the Cryo leading into my vCap dock, its hard to tell you accurately from experience. You likely won't be disappointed despite whatever choice you make on ALO's docks. I play my iMod through the move and have it rockboxed. It works well and is the best out among portable players IMO.

[HeadphoneAddict]

Originally Posted by GiR

...For what it matters I would most likely rockbox it, as I prefered it on my old iriver, would be using lossless and playing through either the D1 amp or getting something else (possibly a Move) as the [D1] amp alone, when not running through its internal dac on the d1 is supposed to be its weak point...

Per either HiFlight or Jamato8 in another thread about rolling in some new opamps in the amp and buffer sockets:

"It [the D1] is easily improved by swapping the buffers and selecting a different LR.

The OPA2111/LM4562 is great for the amp section as well as the
LTC6241HV/AD8397. It really depends on your preference as to the size and distance of the soundstage.

IMHO, both of these combinations greatly improve the amp section. It now does justice to the quality of the DAC."

So, rolling the opamps will make the D1 an acceptable choice for the iMod, saving you money to actually do the iMod, instead of buying another amp. This improves the sound via the analog input, not just from the DAC.

Good luck.

[mrarroyo]

...using lossless and playing through either the D1 amp or getting something else (possibly a Move) as the amp alone, when not running through its internal dac on the d1 is supposed to be its weak point...

This is the opinion of only one person that for some reason has been accepted by some as a fact. I have heard both stock, and IMO the D1 is superior. It becomes a world class act when the DAC chip is swaped from the stock AD8616 to an AD8656. In the amp section I really like using the LM4562 in place of the stock NE5532 and the OPA2111 in place of the stock AD823.

With the new chips the D1 is better than the SR71 and in the LaRocco PRII MkII sound territory. A trully pheonomenal amp at a very reasonable cost. A bit big though.

[GiR]

Well, thanks for the info, I guess if I do go ahead with it, spending the money on some opamp tinkering instead of a different amp is a much better idea. The whole opamp swapping never really seemed like something I would do, but hey, cant hurt really (unless i break it).

First up on the list is getting my d1 delivered. aparently it is stuck in customs, been 6-7 days since the last tracking update

I also may be able to get a working h120 by taking my dads old one that wont turn on, and my one that wont stay on and see if i can make one working one :P

On the iMod side of things, we shall see how everythnig turns out at the start of the month when i get payed

on a side note, is there much point getting a 2nd hand imod, most i see seem to be roughly the same price as a new one anyway :P

[HeadphoneAddict]

OT re: H120 no power.

There are supposed to be some SMD caps 6.3v 100uF that can blow, and replacing them can get them running again. And, there can be a blown LNTP and or LTXQ (more often the later) that can be replaced. There is a bit of info on this at http://www.misticriver.net/showthrea...t=44799&page=4

Now, back to iMod cables...