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Email Ori and see...he may still be able to update your DACs. Not really sure how they compare to the older versions (but of course, you were probably asking him, and not me ;-)
__________________ Cans: Sennheiser HD650, HD590 IEMs: Etymotic ER4-P and 4S Amp: Woo Audio WA3+ w/Tung-Sol 7236 and matched Siemens E188CC/7308s (1970's) Source: Denon DVD-1920, Monarchy DIP Combo Upsampler, Oritek OMZ v4.1 DAC Power: Furman PL-8 II, Parasound AWG12 power cords x3 Cables: Signal Cable Silver Resolution RCA w/ Eichmann Silver Bullets
Tributaries Silver Series SVC (as digital coax) x2
On order: APS V3 HD650 cable Team Bay Area I can has feedsbak?
Just curious, how big improvement it is with current version comparing to
OMZ 2.5A ver 1.2 (before the option of digital board processor removal and optical switch)
OMZ 2.5A ver 1.3 (right after the new plate is available)
I have those at home and like them very much
I own 2.0A V1.2, 2.0A V4.1, 2.5A DAC/PRE and soon one more 2.5A DAC/HAMP.
You will get better dynamics, clarity and details from the V4+ upgrade. Noise is a lot lower, so music sounds more pleasant. The best is the DAC/PRE which has no place for noise to hang around anymore. Get the DAC/PRE if you want hear to what perfect audio reproduction sounds.
Yeah, the DAC/PRE is SICK...I listened to Ori's, and my DAC in an A/B comparison, and it made me wish I had an extra grand to spend, but honestly...I'm happy with the DAC all by itself. It's not "oh man, this sucks compared to that" by a long shot...the sound is very similar, but the combo is just THAT much more natural and musical. Not enough to cause me to rethink my purchase...I'm happy as a clam with the DAC.
__________________ Cans: Sennheiser HD650, HD590 IEMs: Etymotic ER4-P and 4S Amp: Woo Audio WA3+ w/Tung-Sol 7236 and matched Siemens E188CC/7308s (1970's) Source: Denon DVD-1920, Monarchy DIP Combo Upsampler, Oritek OMZ v4.1 DAC Power: Furman PL-8 II, Parasound AWG12 power cords x3 Cables: Signal Cable Silver Resolution RCA w/ Eichmann Silver Bullets
Tributaries Silver Series SVC (as digital coax) x2
On order: APS V3 HD650 cable Team Bay Area I can has feedsbak?
The basic DAC mod can be done very very cheaply if you DIY. Not taking anything from Ori's fine product but if you are resourceful and have a soldering iron you can save a lot of money. Time IS money though, the parts cost for a buffer is shockingly cheap.
I've been enjoying a D2A v4 and D2.5A v4.1 w/headphone amp. I recently got an Opus balanced DAC and it is great, but there are still some things (overall transparency, extended highs) that I think the OMZ does a bit better.
I was going to sell my D2A, but think I'll hang on to it. Not sure where I'd use it yet. But I'm slowly saving up for a hopefully balanced system. I like that the Opus has both balanced and SE outputs.
Hmmm....
Hey Ori: what would it take to make my D2A balanced? Do you think there'd be enough room?
__________________
"They'll never put me in a bag" - Syd Barrett
"This fantasy's for real. Fantasies are IN this year" - Mark Burgess
I can't believe I'm still using the OMZ after all this time. I did buy the darn Storm Pandora, but that was really for curiosity sake for its USB to I2S and master clock sync options for my PC Audio. I don't expect it will replace OMZ at all..
It's too bad Ori decided against Zhaolu D3 mods. That TG link really is enticing for us PC audio guys.. Maybe if we all gang up on him
that was really for curiosity sake for its USB to I2S and master clock sync options for my PC Audio.
Isn't the S/PDIF link good enough ? I find playing music from my HTPC, feeding my OMZ, sounds not worse, perhaps better, than using a CD transport.
Originally Posted by Jon L
It's too bad Ori decided against Zhaolu D3 mods. That TG link really is enticing for us PC audio guys.. Maybe if we all gang up on him
I'm not sure what TG Link is really for. If your computer is near the DAC, then you can use a S/PDIF cable. I built my HTPC and place it next to my LCDTV so that I can use the shortest HDMI cable. A long (quality) HDMI cable costs a lot, compared to the TG Link (UTP) cable.
There are good reasons to have a dedicated machine for home entertainment. If you subscribe to BBC HD movies access, then you need to download those gigabyte-sized movies which may take days to finish. To get the movies faster, you need a dedicated machine downloading 24/7.
I'm very happy with my setup, one machine for both music and movies. The machine doesn't really need a monitor, but monster harddrives and quiet fans. I can use remote access software to control it. My next project is to convert all my favorite CDs into a lossless format.
It's time to have more than one PC at home now. Don't worry about the global warming. AMD offers us 45-watt green PCs with the complete HTPC features at a tight budget.
Isn't the S/PDIF link good enough ? I find playing music from my HTPC, feeding my OMZ, sounds not worse, perhaps better, than using a CD transport.
I'm not sure what TG Link is really for. If your computer is near the DAC, then you can use a S/PDIF cable.
Not all transports are created equal, and not all "HTPC" spdif outputs are created equal. My own PC's Lynx 2B modded spdif output is darn good, and I would gladly take it over many, many transports. However, spdif is spdif, with many issues well documented.
The spdif signal has to go through the "spdif input receiver" in the DAC, then the spdif signal is converted to I2S signal, which is the native signal that DAC chips process.
TG link is essentially the same thing is I2S, so you get to skip the spdif input receiver and the spdif conversion to I2S.
The spdif signal has to go through the "spdif input receiver" in the DAC, then the spdif signal is converted to I2S signal, which is the native signal that DAC chips process.
TG link is essentially the same thing is I2S, so you get to skip the spdif input receiver and the spdif conversion to I2S.
I am a novice to this. So how more accurate are the 0's and 1's? If the TG link is essentially the same as I2S, why not use I2S as the real deal?
And how come your modified SPDIF can deliver and improved performance? Does that mean that if I fit a better USB output I will get better data from my external hard drive? Perhaps my downloaded mp3 and DIVX files will sound and look better? Or is all this marvel only limited to SPDIF? Your help would be very much appreciated.
I want to buy a DAC, but with so much apparent snake oil attributes put to even the sonic effects of the screws used for the case I just don't know any more what is real and what is just justification to sell a cheap to make product at a over hiked price. Or is part of the pleasure of a DAC directly related to the amount it cost? I am looking for less darkness in my music and was hoping that a DAC would solve that problem, but with so much conjecture and assumption the only thing that I can see that is documented is how to lose my shirt without a psycho female fan in sight to rip it off me.
If your computer is near the DAC, then you can use a S/PDIF cable. I built my HTPC and place it next to my LCDTV so that I can use the shortest HDMI cable. A long (quality) HDMI cable costs a lot, compared to the TG Link (UTP) cable. 
Linear Mode
