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Go Back   Head-Fi: Covering Headphones, Earphones and Portable Audio > Misc.-Category Forums > DIY (Do-It-Yourself) Discussions

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Old 03-03-2005, 03:04 AM   #361 (permalink)
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Finally decided on a final configuration for my PIMETA, so I figured I'd post it!

After some listening comparisons, I decided to go with:
2x AD843 for L/R
AD8610B for G
2-1-2 Buffers in High BW mode

It is powered by 8x AA NiMH batteries w/ an internal fast charger.








Up next: a Dynamid w/ LED level indicators. Hmmm... batteries or no?
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Old 03-05-2005, 05:24 PM   #362 (permalink)
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Default Cmoy with Switched Volume Control in Zippo Tin

Hi,
Just thought I’d show the latest Zippo amp I have built.

It's based on Guzzlers original Cmoy design, but altered to use the new Alps RK097 volume control with internal switch.

Saves a lot of space and extra wiring needed for the switch.

Size Difference to Altoids Tin

Tess.



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Old 03-06-2005, 06:14 PM   #363 (permalink)
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just finished my new sv-psu. because i wanted to use the transformer flexible for different purposes, i gave him his own home. basically this is again a simple lm317-schematic, very similar e.g. to tangent's steps (starting from C4A/D1A). since i'm a beginner and since it is not so easy to de-/resolder those p2p-cards i had to use, i decided to make it modular. here you'll see the single modules (from right to left):

- the rectifier (4x byv29f low drop, fast switch, soft recovery diodes + 4x wima mkp .047µf "snubbers")
- smoothing (11x 470µf/100v rubycons + 11x 1µf/63v mks as bypass caps)
- regulator (1x lm317) with some post-reg capacitance (220µf/63v) followed by some descending arranged mkp bypass-caps. i separated the regulator-stage to the top, to use the encasing itself (proma cooling-rip case) as cooling device for the lm317.

between the smoothing- and regulator-stage there's another module:
- electronic ripple- and hum-reduction. it is based on a swiss project of thomas schaerer ("Spannungsregelschaltung mit elektronischer Brummsiebung", same babelfished). one pnp transistor (here: MJE2955) and one npn (here: BD239B) form a "complementary darlington stage" that allows a huge first order rc low pass filter (with r1 = 1k2, c5 = 470µf) via current-amplifying (if i got it right there..):

(c3 = 10nf ceramic, r3=470 ohm)
theoretically this will reduce the overall-noise of the circuit to the (very low) inherent noise of the lm317 itself. additionally you'll get a nice slow turn on effect. well.. there's one drawback at least: another voltage drop of 2v (this psu is really not very effective: 2v drop for rectifyer, 2v for lm317 and now...). with bigger transformers you could flip the coin and take it as a benefit, because you'll get lower temperatures on the regulator. skip it, if you need high voltages (with best regards to head-fier steinchen... ).
the transistor coolers i used most likely are oversized: they got not even warm with 250mA dummy-load. the compl. darlington is followed by another pair of 470µf rubycons with their 1µf foil partners.



i made some mistakes with parts-arrangement and therefore had to place the regulator-stage directly above the rectifier-diodes. an argument could be made, that there's too much rfi in that particular place. i'll test the acoustics. i plan to build a new regulator stage using the lm317a anyhow, as soon as parts arrive. most likely it will be placed above the transistors.

altogether i realized some basic psu-design ideas:
- use hand-matched discrete rectifyer diodes (i have to concede, that hand-matching with my cheap dmm was not very reliable...)
- use many smaller caps instead of few big ones
- use hi-spec parts (e.g. 105°c, low esr, oversized voltage caps)
- bypass electrolytics

hm... and i disfigured the case with my dilettantish freehand drilling of the mounting hole for the regulator. so further casework (backplate design) has to wait until better tools arrive.

has anybody ideas, how to fix cards inside the case? they tend to slide a bit for- and backwards now. also i'd appreciate some advice on how to cut cards.. what are you using for this purpose?

[more pics here]
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Old 03-06-2005, 06:52 PM   #364 (permalink)
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nice build

Originally Posted by BrokenEnglish
has anybody ideas, how to fix cards inside the case? they tend to slide a bit for- and backwards now.
you can fix the board with a screw through the lower side of the case and the card. Or mount the card on 4 spacersto the case. Or use hot glue or some kind of instant glue.

Originally Posted by BrokenEnglish
also i'd appreciate some advice on how to cut cards.. what are you using for this purpose?
For cutting cards before assembly you can use a simple small handsaw. For cutting an assembled card a multitool (Dremel, Proxxon) maybe better, you can use it for milling, drilling, brushing, ... also. You get no name clones on ebay for about 25 to 30 EUR. They are crappy but sufficient for small jobs on plastics or aluminum.
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Old 03-07-2005, 04:06 PM   #365 (permalink)
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Default QRV-04

Hello there, well I made this one about 11 months ago but it never gotten any case (and still don't) Will build either a schaeffer/frontpanelexpress case or just a Hammond.

More pics here

/Tobias
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Old 03-07-2005, 04:11 PM   #366 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by tobias_svensk
Hello there, well I made this one about 11 months ago but it never gotten any case (and still don't) Will build either a schaeffer/frontpanelexpress case or just a Hammond.
i'd definitely like to hear one of those peranders-amps. they look neat. but you seem to be one of the few people who ever built them. so please comment on some auditive attributes.
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Old 03-07-2005, 05:22 PM   #367 (permalink)
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Sorry to say but I can't give it a "fair trial" yet.

I have only listen to it thru my PC audio card (wich is a motherbord integrated) and with all sunky cables. But even then it was a big change to the usual "plug in my 580's in the PC sound)

Gonna order a Hammond 1455K1601 now so soon I can tell you.

On this board there isn't any holes for a vol-pot so would a ALPS RK09 2x50k log. do the job (or should i take another value).

Regards
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Old 03-07-2005, 05:25 PM   #368 (permalink)
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I can also tell you that the PCB-boards are excellent quality and the SMD-stuff isn't That hard to solder as some people thinks.
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Old 03-07-2005, 05:46 PM   #369 (permalink)
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the alps rk27 series is the most recommended mid-price pot around here. some prefer 10k ones, most 50k.
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Old 03-07-2005, 06:12 PM   #370 (permalink)
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Yeah I know that but the 27 is to big i think so are the RK09 "ok" until maybe i get another one?
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