TzeYang, I'm still amazed by how cleanly you can bridge that many pads. I played around with it a bit when I was reworking one part of my amp, and I think I'm starting to get a feel for doing it without wire jumpers to support the bridging. Do you do each pad one at a time, letting the solder cool for a moment before moving to the next one? I was able to get results closer to yours doing it that way, as opposed to trying to do several at once while the solder was still melted.
Pretty much depending on the mood or the tools I'm using. If i'm using my old Hakko Red 20Watt, yes i wait until the joints cool down a bit, but not too cold otherwise i'd have to reheat the joint again. Now however, since i've gotten the Hakko 936 i've been pretty lazy due to it's temperature control convenience. I just set it to 300 Celcius (the optimum temperature IMO for the solder wire i'm using) and bridging the joints have never been faster!
Oh and definitely do it one by one. (regardless of which tool you're using) If you try to bridge more than 2 joints at once, trust me, the bridges will look ugly.
Pretty much depending on the mood or the tools I'm using. If i'm using my old Hakko Red 20Watt, yes i wait until the joints cool down a bit, but not too cold otherwise i'd have to reheat the joint again. Now however, since i've gotten the Hakko 936 i've been pretty lazy due to it's temperature control convenience. I just set it to 300 Celcius (the optimum temperature IMO for the solder wire i'm using) and bridging the joints have never been faster!
Oh and definitely do it one by one. (regardless of which tool you're using) If you try to bridge more than 2 joints at once, trust me, the bridges will look ugly.
Ah-hah! This is what my problem was. I normally work at 375 so I can get in and out quickly even when soldering big/difficult parts (which I do more of than stuff on PCB/protoboard), but at that temperature it heats up the bridges too efficiently causing them to pull apart further down if I don't let it cool enough after each one. I turned it down to around 300 and it lets me chain them together much easier.
Very cool retro case job you did on that Bijou, Eric!
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TomB
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Thanks, Jude - for Head-Fi's contribution!!
nicely done funch, I like the angle of the amp boards and FPE panels always look great..dB
.... ericj knows my thoughts
Actually, the angled boards are more functional than cosmetic. I did it that way to get the signal wires as close to the front (and as far away from the tranny and voltage carrying wires) as I could.
even if you dont think you have the time later to add a few caps, you will find it...
Yeah... I decided to go ahead and do the rest of the board on Sunday, and it worked out well. I only had to spend a few minutes today putting the caps in, wiring it up, and adjusting the bias. Right now I'm just letting it run for a couple hours with the test phones before I actually put it to any use.
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