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TzeYang, yes, it has RA-1 concept and exact dimensions. But the electronics is totally different. It's composite AD815+2xOPA132 with separate PSU with bipolar feed.
I'm gonna say the opamp probably won't source 0.5A though
Nice work QQQ
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Home:
Computer -> Silverstone EB01 USB DAC -> Zigis CMoy, or Pimeta -> SR80's.
Memorex old school Personal CD Player -> Zigis CMoy, or Pimeta -> SR80's
Portable:
iPod 4G Nano -> Sennheiser CX300
Projects:
Morgan Jones "Earmax"
Fixing up a Kenwood KD-1033
Hagerman Bugle Preamp
I'm gonna say the opamp probably won't source 0.5A though
the opamp dosnt have to source any current. its just there for voltage correction, and gain.
i do agree, very nice work.
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Originally Posted by mkmelt
ACHTUNG - ALLES KOPFPHONERLISTENERS
Alles kopfphonerlisteners non-technischens! Das tubenmachine is nicht for gefengerpoken und mittengrabben. Oderwise is easy schnappen der springenverk, blowenfus, und poppencap, mit spitzensparken, und smokentubes. Geverken inside der tubenmachine is fur der experten only. Is nicht fur geverken inside by das dumpkopfen. Das rubbernecken amateuren keepen das cotton-picken hands in das pockets. Just relaxen, enjoyen der musik, und vatchen das pretty glowentubes.
no i didnt...why, is that standard practice for cutting plastics or something? i left the blade the right way on...figured using the cutting edge would be the best bet for cutting something - u know how it is. anyways, tablesaw scares me enough as is, id be too scared to fire the thing up with the blade on backwards! but seriously though, is that standard practice?
I've just read some comments where people put blades on backwards when cutting certain materials. The practice from what I've "read" is reserved for thinner pieces of material (Plexi, Vinyl...) I simply was curious how you personally cut it.
Standard practice? Beats the heck out of me. But, it seems people have done it before.
I've just read some comments where people put blades on backwards when cutting certain materials. The practice from what I've "read" is reserved for thinner pieces of material (Plexi, Vinyl...) I simply was curious how you personally cut it.
Standard practice? Beats the heck out of me. But, it seems people have done it before.
BTW, I wasn't trying to jerk your chain.
seriously don't do it!!!!!
I've lived around my parent's furniture woodshop where I've learned woodworking. Every manufacturer and supplier of saws and blades I've dealt with is very explicit about the operation procedures for their equipment. The blades are only to be used correctly assembled and that means rotating the right way! It is a very dangerous equipment with which can cause you letal damage if not operated correctly. I don't mean to scare anyone,but I've learned to deal with such machines with great respect!
My 0.02€
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I've used an 80 tooth combo blade as well as a metal cutting blade on my table saw and they both did a great job of cutting Lexan. No need to flip the blade around. As MASantos said, it's likely to be dangerous. Not to mention that you could knock the teeth off a carbide blade that way.
haha no i didnt think you were jerking my chain at all, but honestly im TOTALLY with MASantos and kklee. i have the utmost respect for these machines and i really dont like the concept of "messing around" like that . my dads a surgeon and sees a lot of nasty-ass injuries from accidents involving powertools and conveyor belts and such and well, needless to say, its not pretty and id rather not have to experience anything like that personally. i need to switch the blade on my dads tablesaw over to a dato set so i can cut some grooves for a case tomorrow and god im nervous enough about just doing that (needless to say i will be putting the blades on in the right way ). anyways, on the topic of cutting lexan or plexi, like kklee said, just using a regular combo blade the right way should do the trick just fine. i was working with plexi personally, and the only thing i could think to complain about would be the smell
This is my 3rd attempt in building headphone amplifiers, the first solid state design for me and my most recent (finished) build...
As has been said before the M3 is an awesome amp that easily shows the quality of source and recording. It is extremely neutral and very transparent and, after many hours of burning in, has almost entirely lost a certain edginess that I noticed in the beginning.
Thumbs up to Amb (and Morsel) who designed the amp...!
Nice build and very nice casework.
What camera did you use? Your pictures are very clear.