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Go Back   Head-Fi: Covering Headphones, Earphones and Portable Audio > Misc.-Category Forums > DIY (Do-It-Yourself) Discussions

Meier Audio CORDA HEADSIX & The Most Recent Sponsored Threads

Celebrating 6 years of Head-Fi, Meier Audio introduces the Limited Edition HEADSIX (portable headphone amp) Head-Fi Support Sales Action




 
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Old 07-31-2007, 06:32 PM   #2351 (permalink)
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Oh jeese, I can't wait to build mine now! Nice work!
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Old 08-01-2007, 04:45 AM   #2352 (permalink)
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Default Minified Pint Finally

I finally got my Minified Pints into their cases......designed for the desk top rather than the pocket. They sound great, and now I'm anxious to start on my Mini3s. One new thing I learned.....some foam rubbers are conductive, and should not be used as pads under a PCB


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Old 08-01-2007, 05:31 AM   #2353 (permalink)
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Wow, you're one of the rare ones that have the PINT working w/out oscillation!
Kudos, the casing is awesome BTW!
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Old 08-01-2007, 06:01 AM   #2354 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by mb3k View Post
Wow, you're one of the rare ones that have the PINT working w/out oscillation!
Kudos, the casing is awesome BTW!
Thanks mbk3....I never had any issues with the pint when I built them last year. I used AMB's instruction sheet to Minify them; I used the AD8397 for L&R and the LM6172 for the ground channel; I installed all caps except C6; the gain is set to 6 on one and 11 on the other. I tested them at voltages from 9v up to 18v with my bench supply with no issues....I use Sennheiser 600 and 650 cans. With the two 9v batteries in series, or a 15v wallwart, the idle current is about 30mA, and the temperature of the 8397 only gets up to about 104deg F.

I have a Hornet, a Minibox E, and will be building at least two Mini3s as traveling amps, so I decided to case the Pints up as desktop units.
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Old 08-01-2007, 12:11 PM   #2355 (permalink)
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Same here. I've build a crapload of pints, and never had a problem, all confirmed with an oscope.
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Old 08-03-2007, 05:50 AM   #2356 (permalink)
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You guys and your amazing builds....

I haven't seen any pics of the doublet amp yet, and I just finished mine on sunday after receiving the board from Sam at octopart.com.

It's basically 2 cmoys with the rail splitter additions for the ground and also a protection diode. Sorry for the webcam quality of the pics:




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Old 08-03-2007, 01:37 PM   #2357 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by jbloudg20 View Post
Same here. I've build a crapload of pints, and never had a problem, all confirmed with an oscope.
X3. I built well over 20 of them. None of them had any sort of problems. All of them were tested with an oscilloscope.

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Old 08-05-2007, 07:22 AM   #2358 (permalink)
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Joshatdot CMoy v1.01 - Panasonic FM 220uF 25v power cap, EPCOS Metal Poly Film 1.0uF input caps, OPA2227PA with dual 9v batts in series, Yageo 1% 1/4 watt resistors, Alps RK097 Pot/Switch.

Three things I noticed when building this CMoy:

1. I need a new corded or cordless Drill. My dads 15+ year old crafts man 9.6v took forever to charge, and was weak! So I tried to use my Dremel. But my Dremel went crazy and eff'ed my all my holes.
2. I need a stepped uni-drill bit, hopefully one in metric. Standard metal/wood bits tore the thin Mint Tin metal.
3. I need a complete hex/allen wrench set. I could not firmly attach the knob to the POT.

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Old 08-05-2007, 12:38 PM   #2359 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Joshatdot View Post
Joshatdot CMoy v1.01 - Panasonic FM 220uF 25v power cap, EPCOS Metal Poly Film 1.0uF input caps, OPA2227PA with dual 9v batts in series, Yageo 1% 1/4 watt resistors, Alps RK097 Pot/Switch.

Three things I noticed when building this CMoy:

1. I need a new corded or cordless Drill. My dads 15+ year old crafts man 9.6v took forever to charge, and was weak! So I tried to use my Dremel. But my Dremel went crazy and eff'ed my all my holes.
2. I need a stepped uni-drill bit, hopefully one in metric. Standard metal/wood bits tore the thin Mint Tin metal.
3. I need a complete hex/allen wrench set. I could not firmly attach the knob to the POT.

On the Unibit, it is a very nice bit, but I think it won't help a whole lot on the tin cans, as the aluminum is so weak it just bends in regardless. What needs to happen is a block of wood that is put up against the side of the container when drilling so that the metal doesn't bend in.
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Old 08-05-2007, 01:38 PM   #2360 (permalink)
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Use a standard paper hole punch - the kind with the plier handles. It punches the most beautiful, perfectly shaped 1/4" holes in mint tins. You can use it to nibble square and rectangular holes, too. It will even cut through the rolled lip on the sides of the top.
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