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Today's Featured Head-Fi Blog: Jude's Blog
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I finally got my Minified Pints into their cases......designed for the desk top rather than the pocket. They sound great, and now I'm anxious to start on my Mini3s. One new thing I learned.....some foam rubbers are conductive, and should not be used as pads under a PCB
Wow, you're one of the rare ones that have the PINT working w/out oscillation!
Kudos, the casing is awesome BTW!
Thanks mbk3....I never had any issues with the pint when I built them last year. I used AMB's instruction sheet to Minify them; I used the AD8397 for L&R and the LM6172 for the ground channel; I installed all caps except C6; the gain is set to 6 on one and 11 on the other. I tested them at voltages from 9v up to 18v with my bench supply with no issues....I use Sennheiser 600 and 650 cans. With the two 9v batteries in series, or a 15v wallwart, the idle current is about 30mA, and the temperature of the 8397 only gets up to about 104deg F.
I have a Hornet, a Minibox E, and will be building at least two Mini3s as traveling amps, so I decided to case the Pints up as desktop units.
Joshatdot CMoy v1.01 - Panasonic FM 220uF 25v power cap, EPCOS Metal Poly Film 1.0uF input caps, OPA2227PA with dual 9v batts in series, Yageo 1% 1/4 watt resistors, Alps RK097 Pot/Switch.
Three things I noticed when building this CMoy:
1. I need a new corded or cordless Drill. My dads 15+ year old crafts man 9.6v took forever to charge, and was weak! So I tried to use my Dremel. But my Dremel went crazy and eff'ed my all my holes.
2. I need a stepped uni-drill bit, hopefully one in metric. Standard metal/wood bits tore the thin Mint Tin metal.
3. I need a complete hex/allen wrench set. I could not firmly attach the knob to the POT.
Joshatdot CMoy v1.01 - Panasonic FM 220uF 25v power cap, EPCOS Metal Poly Film 1.0uF input caps, OPA2227PA with dual 9v batts in series, Yageo 1% 1/4 watt resistors, Alps RK097 Pot/Switch.
Three things I noticed when building this CMoy:
1. I need a new corded or cordless Drill. My dads 15+ year old crafts man 9.6v took forever to charge, and was weak! So I tried to use my Dremel. But my Dremel went crazy and eff'ed my all my holes.
2. I need a stepped uni-drill bit, hopefully one in metric. Standard metal/wood bits tore the thin Mint Tin metal.
3. I need a complete hex/allen wrench set. I could not firmly attach the knob to the POT.
On the Unibit, it is a very nice bit, but I think it won't help a whole lot on the tin cans, as the aluminum is so weak it just bends in regardless. What needs to happen is a block of wood that is put up against the side of the container when drilling so that the metal doesn't bend in.
Use a standard paper hole punch - the kind with the plier handles. It punches the most beautiful, perfectly shaped 1/4" holes in mint tins. You can use it to nibble square and rectangular holes, too. It will even cut through the rolled lip on the sides of the top.
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TomB
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Thanks, Jude - for Head-Fi's contribution!!