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07-01-2009, 02:05 AM
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500+ Head-Fi'er
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 911
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomb
There's a case to be made that a PCB-version of a circuit will always perform better than a point-to-point - simply because quality control in the circuit layout is assured. Shorter traces and proper grounding with a ground plane also means that a PCB version will perform better in most instances. If good grounding is used and wiring lengths are organized and run in the optimum way, then a point-to-point should be equivalent. However, the "if" is the key.  |
sometimes performance isn't everything though.
maybe it'll be perceived better because someone feels accomplished in making a P2P version instead of taking the easy way out. 
I don't think anyone is trying to say that P2P is better.
__________________
Sources: foobar2000 -> x-fi; iPod w/ LOD | Amps: SSMH, CMOY | Phones: D1001, AD700, HD580, Vintage DT880 (600ohm) [Last.fm]
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07-01-2009, 06:45 AM
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Headphoneus Supremus
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Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: In a hamster cage, Seattle
Posts: 5,540
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Do both, it's more fun all around 
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07-01-2009, 01:59 PM
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100+ Head-Fi'er
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Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 209
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Yes, and while you're at it build one with the premade chassis and scratch build the chassis for the P2P version.
__________________
"The magnet wire used to come from Radio Shack. In keeping with their policy of figuring out what the best products are and discontinuing them they no longer have it." - Max Robinson
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07-01-2009, 03:35 PM
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Junior Head-Fi'er
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: a place
Posts: 18
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I hope this is a right place to post this, but I have some questions about tomb's pcb's:
So, this build originally has no panel LED's installed, am I right? And secondly: how are those tube sockets installed? Are they just soldered, or also need some wiring to the board?
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07-01-2009, 05:18 PM
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500+ Head-Fi'er
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 911
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kuroguy
Yes, and while you're at it build one with the premade chassis and scratch build the chassis for the P2P version.
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I'm using a tin that a fossil wallet came in.
__________________
Sources: foobar2000 -> x-fi; iPod w/ LOD | Amps: SSMH, CMOY | Phones: D1001, AD700, HD580, Vintage DT880 (600ohm) [Last.fm]
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07-01-2009, 05:19 PM
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Headphoneus Supremus
Member of the Trade
Beezar
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 5,586
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robot
I hope this is a right place to post this, but I have some questions about tomb's pcb's:
So, this build originally has no panel LED's installed, am I right? And secondly: how are those tube sockets installed? Are they just soldered, or also need some wiring to the board?
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We are not recommending a panel LED for the SSMH PCB and custom case. Of course, you are welcome to drill a hole in the front panel and install one on your own, but I didn't feel that the PCB, power supply, etc., was well suited to using a panel LED - especially after using the tube LED's.
If you look at the pics of my prototypes - they both have panel LEDs, but the one for the black case SSMH doesn't work and isn't wired up. My silver SSMH has a panel LED that works, but it doesn't have tube LEDs. Without going into gory details, I couldn't get things to work when using both - only one or the other. Since the PCB has the positions/holes for the tube LEDs, going with the tube LEDs only - instead of a panel LED - was a better choice for the custom cases. Note that you still have to drill out the center pins in the tube sockets, however. Drilling tube sockets and gluing them back together is described on all of the Millett MAX websites. I'll add it to the SSMH site when I get a chance.
The tube sockets themselves are "PCB" tube sockets, with pins fashioned to fit into the holes on the PCB. They are simply soldered - no wiring involved. The design of the SSMH PCB requires a bit of wiring for the tube LEDs, though.
P.S. Just an FYI, but they are "Dsavitsk's PCBs", not mine.
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07-02-2009, 12:05 AM
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Junior Head-Fi'er
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 1
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Hello all!
First post after reading this entire thread and getting the know-how to construct my own Starving Student.
I gave up on finding 19J6, and went with the option discussed several pages ago to use 12SR7 tubes instead. Works like a charm, and I honestly can't see why so many people are scrambling to find 19J6 tubes when so many other tubes that run on a more standard 12.6 volts are available.
Anyhow, here's my scratch build in a Hammond 1590C...sounds beautiful.
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07-02-2009, 12:12 AM
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Headphoneus Supremus
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Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: In a hamster cage, Seattle
Posts: 5,540
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Nice, looks very 'sci-fi film prop' very cool and good to see another 12SR7build.
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07-02-2009, 12:32 AM
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Headphoneus Supremus
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Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: In a hamster cage, Seattle
Posts: 5,540
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dbl post
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07-02-2009, 05:47 AM
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Junior Head-Fi'er
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Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 8
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I have another neutrik jack that I want to use with the PCB from tomb. It's this one, NYS230
Is it possible to connect this in place of the 6-pin that the PCB is designed for? How would I connect it?
This is the one in the Beezar build, NMJ6HCD2
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07-02-2009, 06:04 AM
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1000+ Head-Fi'er
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Honolulu,HI Chicago,IL
Posts: 1,020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yebisu
I have another neutrik jack that I want to use with the PCB from tomb. It's this one, NYS230
Is it possible to connect this in place of the 6-pin that the PCB is designed for? How would I connect it?
This is the one in the Beezar build, NMJ6HCD2 |
It looks like the PCB-mount one is a switching jack, but its shorted on the PCB anyways.
Wire the frontmost pair of holes to the ground tab on the jack(not really necessary if the jack isn't isolated), the middle two holes to the right channel tab, and the pair of holes at the back to the left channel tab.
(use either of the two holes)
If you can see the mechanism of the jack, plug a TRS plug in and see which of the tab connects to the tip... that one is the left channel. The outermost tab is usually the ground, and the other one is the right channel.
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07-02-2009, 09:17 AM
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Junior Head-Fi'er
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Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 8
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thanks James! I'll try that
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07-03-2009, 05:56 AM
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Junior Head-Fi'er
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Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 8
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I finished my PCB build and it works! at least one channel does...
The right channel kinda works, but it sounds muted, and there is a loud background hiss. The hiss gets loud when I put my hand near the tube, and I'm hearing microphonics, too, I think. All this is only on the right tube and right channel. Left seems perfect.
Should I check my grounds or something? I'm not sure how to troubleshoot with the PCB. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
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07-03-2009, 06:03 AM
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Junior Head-Fi'er
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Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 8
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nevermind! it was a loose joint on my pot. now everything's working!
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07-03-2009, 11:18 PM
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100+ Head-Fi'er
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 122
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Nice build! It's nice to see another 12sr7 starving student.
Quote:
Originally Posted by hislorduberdude
Hello all!
First post after reading this entire thread and getting the know-how to construct my own Starving Student.
I gave up on finding 19J6, and went with the option discussed several pages ago to use 12SR7 tubes instead. Works like a charm, and I honestly can't see why so many people are scrambling to find 19J6 tubes when so many other tubes that run on a more standard 12.6 volts are available.
Anyhow, here's my scratch build in a Hammond 1590C...sounds beautiful.
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