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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 08-18-2005, 02:48 AM
TURBO's Avatar
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Default Ipod connector pinout!

This is the Ipod connector pinout for audio (Green pins), in this order: ground, right and left. Let's get a cheap power connector and build the best line out audio connector!. Sounds like a nice project. Cardas and everything. Je, je, just kidding. Enjoy!

Note: iPod's white side up

Cyan pins = Serial line:
12 TxD = ipod sending line
13 RxD = ipod receiving line
Magenta pads = enable the dock serial connector
Green = audio (Ground,R,L)
Red = +12V (charging)
Grey = GND
Remote control is using 19200 baud 8N+1 (one startbit 8 data bits 1 Stopbit)
Electrical: high +3,3V low 0V
Default line state: high


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 08-18-2005, 03:14 AM
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Nice, Thanks, I wanna do this.!
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  #3 (permalink)  
Old 08-18-2005, 01:01 PM
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You might wanna check out this thread . You man wanna also take a glance at this thread from ipodlinux.org. You can also buy the connectors from member ridax in the ipodlinux thread. All his info including prices is there in the thread.

I have made a few connector so far. The first one was using 22awg silver plated copper and I used Star Quad a couple of times. Both sound much better than my Sik Imp. I think I prefer the sound of the SPC over the Star Quad, but there is really not that much difference in their sound to be honest. I am getting ready to order some Cardas 4X24 wire and try that.

EDIT: There is also a pictures of the connectors here.
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  #4 (permalink)  
Old 08-18-2005, 02:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by headchange4u
You might wanna check out this thread . You man wanna also take a glance at this thread from ipodlinux.org. You can also buy the connectors from member ridax in the ipodlinux thread. All his info including prices is there in the thread.

I have made a few connector so far. The first one was using 22awg silver plated copper and I used Star Quad a couple of times. Both sound much better than my Sik Imp. I think I prefer the sound of the SPC over the Star Quad, but there is really not that much difference in their sound to be honest. I am getting ready to order some Cardas 4X24 wire and try that.

EDIT: There is also a pictures of the connectors here.
Thanks. That's good stuff. I was looking for that connector everywhere.
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  #5 (permalink)  
Old 08-18-2005, 03:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TURBO
Thanks. That's good stuff. I was looking for that connector everywhere.

Order extra, as these connecotrs are hard to work with.
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  #6 (permalink)  
Old 08-19-2005, 03:56 AM
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Thanks. I ordered 4, to play with it. This is my next project, to build the best line out connector!. I will have fun with this. This is something that I've been trying to figure it out how to do it, for long time now. I don’t know yet if, make it with a straight cable, to a mini connector or make it, to a short mini female connector and build a nice mini to mini. Which one will sound better? . Ummmmm
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  #7 (permalink)  
Old 08-31-2005, 02:38 AM
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Ok. I did it. I received the connectors yesterday. These are the pictures.

The connector:

The soldering covered with liquid electric tape, for isolation:

Radio Shack mini jack glued to case and wires soldered:

Another view:

Jack and wires isololated by liquid electric tape:

Final product:

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  #8 (permalink)  
Old 08-31-2005, 02:39 AM
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Comments about the sound, later.

Update: Well. It sounds excellent!. Since I removed all the pins except the ones for audio, it sounds very nice. Interference from other pins are reduced. Very close path from source signal to jack. Everything is very well isolated.

This is my first one, so the next ones will be state of the art. I have planned to do it the same way. I find this style, the best. I can put the mini to mini cable of my liking (made by me, myself and I, of course). Just a big Wow!. This connector rocks! Indeed.
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  #9 (permalink)  
Old 08-31-2005, 04:04 AM
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Thats totally awsome idea I was working on making cables and just trying to get those solder joints to keep from being bridged and from keeping the pins from breaking was hell so that must have been craploads harder those connectors are a bitch. great work.
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  #10 (permalink)  
Old 08-31-2005, 04:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quacker
Thats totally awsome idea I was working on making cables and just trying to get those solder joints to keep from being bridged and from keeping the pins from breaking was hell so that must have been craploads harder those connectors are a bitch. great work.

Big thanks.
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  #11 (permalink)  
Old 12-19-2005, 09:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quacker
Thats totally awsome idea I was working on making cables and just trying to get those solder joints to keep from being bridged and from keeping the pins from breaking was hell so that must have been craploads harder those connectors are a bitch. great work.

I took a crack at it and didnt find soldering to the pins difficult at all. I do not see how they can be broken. Though I used a very sharp soldering iron tip and it gave me no trouble. A glue gun helps with strain relief

dab the pins with flux, tin the wire, and viola, instant bond , maybe some people are using iron tips that are too large?
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  #12 (permalink)  
Old 12-19-2005, 04:57 PM
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Is this right?


Pin 2 (first tab on the bottom) is line out ground

Pin 3 (second tab on the top) is line out right

Pin 4 (second tab on the bottom) is line out left
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  #13 (permalink)  
Old 12-30-2005, 07:58 PM
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Which of the two connector types that Ridax has do you want to order for a line-out with jack inside? He has a larger (thicker?) one for $2 each and a smaller or thinner one for $2.50 each? Thanks.
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  #14 (permalink)  
Old 12-31-2005, 03:26 AM
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the thinner one does not snap together. I believe it needs to be glued or ultrasonically welded. The thicker one just snaps together (it's actually not very thick at all).
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Amps: Dynalo, Dynahi, Mint, Van Waarde
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  #15 (permalink)  
Old 12-31-2005, 04:34 AM
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One tip (no pun intended!) for small soldering: my soldering iron recently worn out the tip, so I removed the old tip and found a nut that can screw in its place. Now here's the trick: I cut and stripped a piece of thick soild wire (guessing 16AWG) and made a loop so it can wedge between the heating element and the nut. I then bent the wire using pliers to make a tip. Now, I use the wire for small connections and the nut for big connections. It works better than new! I was able to make a USB sync/charge cable for my PDA, without the solder bridge issues I had last time I tried it. I just used my desoldering tool to remove the old solder and start over. When I used my homemade tip, it worked the first time.
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