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I am not sure where to get a replacement pci bracket like that which i could drill and put in whatever connectors I want. So here are my questions...
Where can I find a blank pci bracket? (the post says custom, but I've got no clue how to do that. Really wish people would post more detail about such things.)
Where can I buy the connectors and cable that go onto the PCI bracket?
What kind of cable should be used?
Sorry if these are all noob questions, but we gotta start somewhere. Go easy on me.
__________________ Any society that gives up a small amount of freedom for a small amount of security loses both and deserves neither. -Ben Franklin
http://www.keyelco.com/dynamicnav/pa...artNumber=9203
Mouser #534-9203 but you should measure the location of the tabs on your card and see if they line up before ordering one (that is what they "make" datasheets for).
(the post says custom, but I've got no clue how to do that. Really wish people would post more detail about such things.)
See the little solder blob on the bracket below?
(I photochopped in a little "arrowhead" to make it more obvious)
Looks like what that person did is sanded the plating off one of the blank brackets that used to come with computer cases, then drilled some holes in it and then soldered on some little "tabs" (to bolt the pci card to) but I am only guessing.......
Where can I buy the connectors and cable that go onto the PCI bracket?
i'm sick of all the useless connectors on my E-MU 0404 PCI as well
that pic is exactly what i need, just 2 x RCA and 1 x digital coaxial out
edit: agree with misterX, cheapest and probably easiest way to get a blank bracket is to use one of the blank ones that are used to block the PCI slots on new cases
depending on the case though this can either be very poor and flimsy (cheap OEM cases) or actually very usable (such as on my Antec case)
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http://www.keyelco.com/dynamicnav/pa...artNumber=9203
Mouser #534-9203 but you should measure the location of the tabs on your card and see if they line up before ordering one (that is what they "make" datasheets for).
See the little solder blob on the bracket below?
(I photochopped in a little "arrowhead" to make it more obvious)
[IMG.]http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b393/X86inside/mod.jpg[/IMG]
Looks like what that person did is sanded the plating off one of the blank brackets that used to come with computer cases, then drilled some holes in it and then soldered on some little "tabs" (to bolt the pci card to) but I am only guessing.......
I meant to specify, sorry... I'm actually looking to make these 3.5mm stereo jacks. I plug computer speakers straight into the card, then run my cans through those. Probably not the best way, maybe i can do 1 3.5 and 1 1/4th if it will fit. I'm debating making a break out cable and just putting what I need though. I really not sure how you solder those brackets... normal component soldering wont work will it?
__________________ Any society that gives up a small amount of freedom for a small amount of security loses both and deserves neither. -Ben Franklin
Have you thought about using a separate bracket for the new connectors instead of trying to attach it to the card itself? You could install the bracket in the next slot above the card and just use some short lengths of suitable wire to splice into the card, which would be much easier IMO.
On the other hand, looking at the 0404 PCI I see it uses the same connector system that my card uses. Fortunately mine uses the common HD15 connector for it's breakout cable so I've made a few custom breakouts in the past for next to nothing. For example here's a balanced one I made just for my studio monitors that cost about $10 to build:
Not as elegant as fabricating a new PCI slot with custom outputs, but at least you would maintain flexibility for connecting future equipment if you made a new breakout cable instead.
Edit: Ah, I see you already mentioned the possibility of just making a breakout cable instead. Sorry, I didn't read the whole thread.
Have you thought about using a separate bracket for the new connectors instead of trying to attach it to the card itself? You could install the bracket in the next slot above the card and just use some short lengths of suitable wire to splice into the card, which would be much easier IMO.
On the other hand, looking at the 0404 PCI I see it uses the same connector system that my card uses. Fortunately mine uses the common HD15 connector for it's breakout cable so I've made a few custom breakouts in the past for next to nothing. For example here's a balanced one I made just for my studio monitors that cost about $10 to build:
Not as elegant as fabricating a new PCI slot with custom outputs, but at least you would maintain flexibility for connecting future equipment if you made a new breakout cable instead.
Edit: Ah, I see you already mentioned the possibility of just making a breakout cable instead. Sorry, I didn't read the whole thread.
yeah... my problem is i'm not sure how to make those 2 Right and Left channels into stereo... do you connect both grounds or something?
*edit*
Ah the second blank is a great idea actually. I didnt realize originally that I could solder to the back of the card, but that would work perfectly. I think i may opt for that idea.
__________________ Any society that gives up a small amount of freedom for a small amount of security loses both and deserves neither. -Ben Franklin
yeah... my problem is i'm not sure how to make those 2 Right and Left channels into stereo... do you connect both grounds or something?
The grounds of the 1/4" outs should be common, just check them with a multimeter to be sure they are. If they are, then you would just tie both grounds, which will each have a pin in the HD15 connector, together when soldering them to the 1/8" stereo jack.
Or if you just want to modify your stock breakout instead of building a new one, you could just cut off the two 1/4" female output jacks and solder a single 1/8" stereo jack in their place. It would be the same either way though, you'd tie the two grounds together at the new stereo jack.
The grounds of the 1/4" outs should be common, just check them with a multimeter to be sure they are. If they are, then you would just tie both grounds, which will each have a pin in the HD15 connector, together when soldering them to the 1/8" stereo jack.
Or if you just want to modify your stock breakout instead of building a new one, you could just cut off the two 1/4" female output jacks and solder a single 1/8" stereo jack in their place. It would be the same either way though, you'd tie the two grounds together at the new stereo jack.
I am sure this is a dumb question, but how would you check via a multimeter? I've got one, but its crappy and i dont think it has cont. check on it. I need to find another one. I really want to get into more soldering projects in general. I see you've made a number of things, I'd love to build a speaker amp, and a headphone amp too for my A900LTD's.
__________________ Any society that gives up a small amount of freedom for a small amount of security loses both and deserves neither. -Ben Franklin
I am sure this is a dumb question, but how would you check via a multimeter? I've got one, but its crappy and i dont think it has cont. check on it. I need to find another one. I really want to get into more soldering projects in general. I see you've made a number of things, I'd love to build a speaker amp, and a headphone amp too for my A900LTD's.
Well the way I see it there really is no such thing as a dumb question, we're all here to learn.
So if your meter doesn't have a continuity function you could use the ohms setting to measure the resistance, which would basically give you the same answer to the question of whether two things are electrically connected together. With your meter set on ohms, touch the two probes together to get the "zero" reading, which is about 0.4 ohm when I do this with my meter.
On the 1/4" output connectors of your breakout cable, the metal ring that protrudes out of the red/white plastic will be connected to the ground of each channel. What you want to do is measure the resistance from this ring of the white connector to the same ring on the red connector. If you get an ohm reading anywhere near what your "zero" value was then you know they're connected together (common).
Every single piece of audio equipment that I've seen has had common ground between both channels (for the analog connectors at least), but it's still good to get in the habit of checking things just to be sure.
A cheap way to practice soldering is to get an old VCR or something and take it apart. You can de-solder the various parts and then solder them back in until you perfect your techniques and control. Also those Velleman kits are pretty cheap too and some of them would be pretty fun to play with anyway.
Well the way I see it there really is no such thing as a dumb question, we're all here to learn.
So if your meter doesn't have a continuity function you could use the ohms setting to measure the resistance, which would basically give you the same answer to the question of whether two things are electrically connected together. With your meter set on ohms, touch the two probes together to get the "zero" reading, which is about 0.4 ohm when I do this with my meter.
On the 1/4" output connectors of your breakout cable, the metal ring that protrudes out of the red/white plastic will be connected to the ground of each channel. What you want to do is measure the resistance from this ring of the white connector to the same ring on the red connector. If you get an ohm reading anywhere near what your "zero" value was then you know they're connected together (common).
Every single piece of audio equipment that I've seen has had common ground between both channels (for the analog connectors at least), but it's still good to get in the habit of checking things just to be sure.
A cheap way to practice soldering is to get an old VCR or something and take it apart. You can de-solder the various parts and then solder them back in until you perfect your techniques and control. Also those Velleman kits are pretty cheap too and some of them would be pretty fun to play with anyway.
All very good info, thanks so much. I'm going to read it again in the morning when I'm more alive. I do have one quick question though. I got one of these Weller Soldering Stations from a friend when he wanted me to mod his xbox for him and I wasnt real sure how high i should put the heat. I do have an old VCR that I will definitely try on and see what works best but does each PCB and/or component have a special temp needed? I do remember when I did a few xbox mods, that it said something about keeping the temp low so as to not mess up the components, and my previous iron was 30w, so I had my buddy buy the weller which went down and back up.
__________________ Any society that gives up a small amount of freedom for a small amount of security loses both and deserves neither. -Ben Franklin
Emu 0404 PCI bracket mod Question
