Head-Fi's Sponsors
(Premier Sponsors bolded) |
|
|
Can Jam '09
(2009
International
Head-Fi Meet)
Impressions,
Reviews, Photos |
Can
Jam '09 graphic
courtesy of Edwood
Click on the links below
for Can Jam '09 photos,
impressions and reviews:
blubliss
1,
2,
3
dallan
1,
2,
3,
4
santacore
1,
2
nhat_thanh
1, 2
vpivinylspinner
1,
2,
3
amb
1
augustwest
1
eaglejo
1
johnsonad
1
shellylh
1
Jon L
1,
2,
3,
4
Germancub
1
zippy2001
1
IPodPJ
1
bhd812
1
Edwood
1,
2
abellaw
1,
2
minidiscs
1
atothex
1
HighLife
1
achristilaw
1
SiBurning
1,
2,
3,
4
SiBurning
5,
6,
7
LFF
1
Iron_Dreamer
1
doping panda
1
morphsci
1
ironbut
1
shaizada
1
jasper994
1,
2
jp11801
1
Uncle Erik
1
drubrew
1
(More impressions/photos
still being added.)
|
|
|
Head-Fi Blogs
and Facebook |
|
|
Head-Fi's Sponsors
(Premier Sponsors bolded) |
|
|
|
12-21-2008, 07:56 PM
|
 |
500+ Head-Fi'er
|
|
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 569
|
|
Effect of adhesive heatshrink on sound
For my last few projects I have used adhesive heatshrink on "air wired" stuff. Like on the wires soldered to a TKD pot, or RCA inputs. I still solder the wires in of course, but just so I know they will never break off I use the adhesive heatshrink on top of that.
It occurred to me that the adhesive becomes the "dielectric" around those solder terminals. I know the dielectric affects SQ in the signal path, so what effect do you think this heatshrink has on the sound overall, if any?
|
12-21-2008, 09:13 PM
|
|
500+ Head-Fi'er
|
|
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Guelph, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 501
|
|
none
|
12-21-2008, 10:13 PM
|
 |
Headphoneus Supremus
|
|
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 1,673
|
|
Quote:
|
I know the dielectric affects SQ in the signal path, so what effect do you think this heatshrink has on the sound overall, if any?
|
I find that it has a stickier more rubbery sound, but the details are more tightly held together.
|
12-21-2008, 10:52 PM
|
 |
500+ Head-Fi'er
|
|
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: New York City, USA
Posts: 629
|
|
I use clear heatshrink; I find it colors the sound less.
__________________
Headphones Sennheiser HD650, Audio Technica ATH-W2002, ATH-W11JPN, Sennheiser PX100, Audio Technica ATH-ES7, Sony MDR-SA5000
Amplification CK²III-D, 3-Channel ß22, Bijou (In Queue), ß24 (in progress), Yamaha RV-1105
Source PC>Foobar>Hotrodded X-Fi, Cowon Audio X5 30GB, Pioneer DV-58AVm Marantz DV4600, Technics SL1200-M5G
Music Electronica, ambient, IDM, beats, fractal groove, psychedelic, progressive house/trance/breaks, jungle, cinematic soundscapes, avant-garde, abstract, minimal, sonic forms of beauty, light and darkness.
Feedback: http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f12/moodysteve-262772/
|
12-21-2008, 10:54 PM
|
|
Headphoneus Supremus
|
|
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Indiana
Posts: 2,278
|
|
^I thought clear heatshrink would make it more "transparent" 
|
12-21-2008, 10:56 PM
|
 |
500+ Head-Fi'er
|
|
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Vancouver
Posts: 588
|
|
it constricts the sound, but makes it sound more transparent, and less colored. the sound also becomes more molassus-like, and stickier.
|
12-21-2008, 11:00 PM
|
 |
100+ Head-Fi'er
|
|
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 221
|
|
Let the heat shrink burn-in for 200 h+ and then write a review!
|
12-21-2008, 11:03 PM
|
 |
Headphoneus Supremus
|
|
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: The Beach, California
Posts: 14,520
|
|
I use virgin silk-impregnated heatshrink, woven by Tibetan monks.
After 8,000 hours of burn-in, my karma improves.
__________________
UNCLE ERIK
"If you cannot measure it, you cannot improve it." Lord Kelvin
Orbe SE -> SME IV -> Fi Yph -> Zana Deux/Si2A3
HF-1, HF-2, HP-2, K-1000, K-340, K-240DF, HD-800, HD-414, DT48, MDR-SA5000, MDR-7509HD, ATH-6, Omega II Mk.1, Aperio Alpha 1, e3c
ProAc Response 2.5 (cloned), Verhagen Ribbons, Quad ESL-63, Linkwitz Orion+ (under construction)
|
12-22-2008, 02:14 AM
|
 |
1000+ Head-Fi'er
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Missouri
Posts: 1,033
|
|
Mine's cryo'ed.
|
12-22-2008, 02:24 AM
|
|
Head-Fi'er
|
|
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Perth, Western Australia
Posts: 85
|
|
I look forward to the inevitable DIY tutorial on how to cryo and burn-in your clear adhesive heatshrink!
I'm pretty sure extensive listening tests will also prove it's directional too... you must slide the tubing on in the direction of the audio signal...
|
12-22-2008, 04:56 AM
|
|
500+ Head-Fi'er
|
|
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Guelph, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 501
|
|
Damn, I pretty much have to delete my first post now...
|
12-22-2008, 05:05 AM
|
|
500+ Head-Fi'er
|
|
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 569
|
|
Wow, I still think it's a valid question. If teflon vs. cotton sounds different (and it does), then a slathering of rubbery adhesive will probably sound different than bare metal...anyway..uh, thanks...
|
12-22-2008, 05:11 AM
|
|
Headphoneus Supremus
|
|
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 1,673
|
|
I think we've all had too much eggnog this weekend, but the comments are in good (self-deprecating) humor. We're all in the same boat really.
|
12-22-2008, 09:57 AM
|
 |
1000+ Head-Fi'er
|
|
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Honolulu,HI Chicago,IL
Posts: 1,020
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by slowpogo
Wow, I still think it's a valid question. If teflon vs. cotton sounds different (and it does), then a slathering of rubbery adhesive will probably sound different than bare metal...anyway..uh, thanks...
|
The dielectric is usually a concern when factoring in the capacitance of a cable. This requires two conductors carrying different voltages and a high impedance signal at a close proximity.
If you're air-wiring a wire, this is usually not a concern...
I also remember reading a article that interviewed several well-known cable manufacturers about cable burn-in, and many of them noted that the wire dielectrics, being physical not only absorbs energy, but re-radiates it.
They also referred to the concept of piezoelectricity.
Although I personally don't believe cables make a difference in audio, I have built several cables anyways for the sake of having nice cables, and when I do, I apply the best of my knowledge into building an ideal cable as long as the concept/theory does not sacrifice practicality and cost.
The impedance after a pot is quite high, adhesive heatshrink is pretty thick and the pot pins are pretty close together. Regardless, a inch or so definitely won't matter but then again, solder joints are pretty strong and the mechanical strength inside a case is just as unimportant as the theoretical increase in capacitance due to the heatshrink.
I wouldn't bother worrying about it.. use whatever you have. It looks cleaner when the pins are heatshrinked over imo.
|
12-22-2008, 05:13 PM
|
 |
Headphoneus Supremus
|
|
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: mtn view, ca
Posts: 2,651
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by White Mike
I'm pretty sure extensive listening tests will also prove it's directional too... you must slide the tubing on in the direction of the audio signal...
|
I tried that but after a few cycles of swapping + and -, my arms got tired! alternating current: DAMN YOU!!
I could not tell the difference - I must need a better DAC or preamp, then.
__________________
Phones: hd-580, DIY hd-650
Amps: motorized remote pimeta, PPAv1 (rackmount), PPAv1 in Hammond, minimax, Beta22, Sigma22, pimeta-v2,
DACs: BantamDAC,gamma1,gamma1-spdif, DACmaster/gamma2,SPDIFmaster spdif coax/opto switch
Photostream:http://www.flickr.com/photos/linux-works/
Website:http://www.netstuff.org/audio/
"Everybody's tied up in a solid state; Nobody's without twin reverb." -george harrison
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
All times are GMT. The time now is 12:59 AM.
|
