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Go Back   Head-Fi: Covering Headphones, Earphones and Portable Audio > Misc.-Category Forums > DIY (Do-It-Yourself) Discussions

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Old 07-13-2005, 02:31 AM   #791 (permalink)
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mmmk thanks
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Old 07-14-2005, 12:32 AM   #792 (permalink)
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Cardas 300B Mini to Mini
Canare F-12 connectors
Kester silver solder






I have come to hate 300B

All kidding aside the cable was very hard to work with. Almost impossible to get the wire to tin and it's very thick, stiff cable. The ground wires are REALLY small. The cable does sounds good, but not much different than Star Quad in this application.

I have some cable left over that will eventually become a set of RCA cables.

EDIT: One thing I do really like about 300B: It works well with F-12 connectors. It makes them look not-so-bulky. They look like the perfect size for this cable. I've always thought that F-12 plugs were just a little big, but I love how well they are made.

F-12 + Cardas 300B = DIY audio thick and chunky style.
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Old 07-14-2005, 12:48 AM   #793 (permalink)
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Congrats on mastering the 300B Headchange. I'm glad you were able to tin the wire, did you try a different iron? Another configuration to try, and I would recommend this for the RCAs you'll be making soon, is to have a small and large conductor for the signal and ditto for the ground.
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Old 07-14-2005, 03:07 AM   #794 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by HiGHFLYiN9
Congrats on mastering the 300B Headchange. I'm glad you were able to tin the wire, did you try a different iron? Another configuration to try, and I would recommend this for the RCAs you'll be making soon, is to have a small and large conductor for the signal and ditto for the ground.
I ended up using my 25 watt Weller iron with a large tip and lots of flux. The addition of the extra flux seemed to help remove the enamel coating on the wire. The enamel just seemed to bubble off the wire. I had been using a small screwdriver tip, and I think that the larger tip allowed for more heat to transfer to the wire. I just had to held the iron on the wire a few seconds longer than I normally would. Once I got the wire tinned it was pretty easy to to work with.

You must have read my mind on making the RCA's. I plan to do exactly what you said; using one small conductor and one large conductor for each connection. Thanks for your tips on working with this wire.
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Old 07-14-2005, 03:19 AM   #795 (permalink)
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ugh, If the cardas headphone cable is any indication of the 300b,

I really loath Cardas DIY.
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Old 07-14-2005, 09:26 AM   #796 (permalink)
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I recabled this one tonight. My friend came over and was like dude it came with a coiled cord. I told him I knew that and I told him it came with a coiled cored. He insisted I recable his headphones and so I did. It was a bunch of fun and a pain all at the same time. Its 24gauge silver plated copper wire covered in Teflon. The sleeving is some extra I had left over laying around of the Nylon Monofilament and a gold/black Neutrik mini plug.







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Old 07-14-2005, 02:11 PM   #797 (permalink)
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I always wanted to recable my HD-280's when I had them. I found the coil cord to be nothing but a hassle, got tangled a lot. Nice job!
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Old 07-14-2005, 04:23 PM   #798 (permalink)
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Zip: did you recable it to the connector inside, or did you splice it? the 280's have a similar connector to the 595s, which I wish to recable.
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Old 07-14-2005, 09:25 PM   #799 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by devwild
Zip: did you recable it to the connector inside, or did you splice it? the 280's have a similar connector to the 595s, which I wish to recable.
I soldered it Directly to the board. Look here:



You will see you can pull the pins out with the wires soldered to them. That is what I did and then I soldered the wires to the empty pin holes. It will look like this:

. . . .
. . . .

It will look like that on the side, but slanted. and in the middle the speaker wires go though and its like this:

. . . .

After that there are 3 more connections on the right side like this:

.
.
.

Those have no use in a recable.

I recabled the whole thing so all wiring was replaced. Either way in the first of what I drew here is what they are:

1. 2. 3. 4.
5. 6. 7. 8.

#1 is Left channel, #2 is Right channel # 5 is Ground for Left channel #6 is Ground for Right channel. #3,4,7,8 are not used.

The wiring in the middle.

1. 2. 3. 4.

#1. is left #2 is ground for left #3 is ground for right #4 is right.

I hope this helps some.

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Old 07-14-2005, 09:44 PM   #800 (permalink)
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one more challenge (if you havent done so already)

recable in inside wiring on the right side and headband
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