DIY Cable Gallery!!

[RnB180]

drilling a bigger hole is unnecessary work though. the plus is already frail its also better to solder at the base of the clamp, since the spacing between the ground and signal pins will be much larger and less lighly prone to short.

also scuba, its a good idea to tug on your leads to make sure there is a strong joint after soldering.

[[AK]Zip]

Today I decided to recable my SR80's. I finished about 4-5 hours ago and I am really happy with how they came out. I used 24gauge silver plated copper wire. The wires weren't going to fit into the Neutrik plug so I drilled out the hold and all of them fit along with the sleeving and heatshrink. This is the first time I put heatshrink inside the plug and I like how it came out. After recabling them I decided why not change the mesh grill on it and since I had some laying around from when I modded my computer I decided why not. Others have done it and I loved how it turned out. Most that I saw who used a different mesh grill on their SR80's didn't put the round emblem back on so I laid it down on the grill and looked at it. I liked it more with it on since it feels finished to me so I glued that down to the mesh grill. Overall this was really fun and immediately I hear that the bass has become much more controlled and the highs are no longer harsh. I need more listen time to make a final conclusion.







-Alex-

[[AK]Zip]

Originally Posted by RnB180

drilling a bigger hole is unnecessary work though. the plus is already frail its also better to solder at the base of the clamp, since the spacing between the ground and signal pins will be much larger and less lighly prone to short.

also scuba, its a good idea to tug on your leads to make sure there is a strong joint after soldering.

I usually don't use the holes for soldering down the ground wire. I do use the hole for the channels when they are there.

-Alex-

[ScubaSteve87]

Originally Posted by RnB180

drilling a bigger hole is unnecessary work though. the plus is already frail its also better to solder at the base of the clamp, since the spacing between the ground and signal pins will be much larger and less lighly prone to short.

also scuba, its a good idea to tug on your leads to make sure there is a strong joint after soldering.

Thanks for all your advice. I am a little concerned about a short, as ther are loose strands but I made sure none are touching and lat last night I did a little touch up work, getting rid of some of the loose strands in the conncetion. I also did give the wires a tug too right after I soldered them. Solid as a rock.

[saab]

Originally Posted by [AK]Zip

-Alex-

I have seen many of your cables, and they all have that fantastic covering. Where do you get it? Feel free to pm me if you like.

Thanks
-John

[TURBO]

Another state of the art Paranoid combination. Cable is made out of high quality cooper with Neutrik connectors and wires are treated for maximum electrons transfer (my secret). Enjoy.

[VR6ofpain]

Originally Posted by saab

I have seen many of your cables, and they all have that fantastic covering. Where do you get it? Feel free to pm me if you like.

Thanks
-John

I agree, looks like cotton. Would work great for the L and R runs after the Y on a headphone recable...since there is probably minimal noise. My recabled portaPro's PET is very loud if you move. they 'scatch' at stuff and make quite a bit of noise...this has kept me away from recabling my SR-80's.

[RnB180]

Ive noticed PET microphonics more evident on some cans then others.

Grados are super sensitive to PET microphonics, however the Senns are not nearly as sensitive as the Grados.

Obviously due to the design, senns have more dampening between the wire and your ears. Grados and I suppose portapros are so minimalistic in design that there is pratically zero buffer zone for microphonics to travel through.

with grados the wire continues all the way up until less then an inch from the drivers and your ears.

senns have huge velour pads, drivers farther away from the ears, large cups and the wire has to run through a series of connectors.

if PET microphonics bother you that much, you should stay away from IEMs, eat with IEMs on and you hear explosions go off in your head.

my recabled grados sound like a zipper running up and down when I go walking around with them. but PET over the leads do serve some beneficial purposes other then aesthetics, it helps prevent kinking of the leads.

[VR6ofpain]

Originally Posted by RnB180

if PET microphonics bother you that much, you should stay away from IEMs, eat with IEMs on and you hear explosions go off in your head.

Excuse my ignorance, but what is an IEM? Inner Ear Monitor?

Originally Posted by RnB180

my recabled grados sound like a zipper running up and down when I go walking around with them. but PET over the leads do serve some beneficial purposes other then aesthetics, it helps prevent kinking of the leads.

I agree with both, the PET has a purpose (protection, so to speak), but I bet the noise is brutal. I get virtually no noise from the factory cable, so I think it'll stay...I was just tempted because I heard claims of the highs being tammed with a recable.
Now where are my HF-1's?

[ScubaSteve87]

Mini to RCA
red and white 22 AWG Silver plated copper
Switchcraft rca and mini
Black 1/4" and 1/8" tech flex
3/8" 1:2 heatshrink


My first ever cable:


my craptastic y-joint



Lessons learned:
Pacific Radio rips your on shipping UPS
Don't use 3/8 heat shrink on 1/8 inch techflex
don't get your lighter to close or techflex does melt
don't use pliers on gold plated RCA connectors

sound quality? well the bass is a lot more present and tighter than with the old 2 dollar cable from best buy. also, sound on amp can be set about 10 decibles lower with same volume as before, this contributes to overall SQ.

[MdRex]

my craptastic y-joint

If this make you feel any better, you should check out the y-splitter I did



I like yours MUCH better, mine was like... oops, ran out of material...

[RnB180]

Originally Posted by MdRex

If this make you feel any better, you should check out the y-splitter I did



I like yours MUCH better, mine was like... oops, ran out of material...

add a thick dual wall shrink over that and it should fix your problem.

[ScubaSteve87]

RCA Interconnects:



22 awg SPC
Switchcraft RCA
Black 1/4" tech flex

[TURBO]

This is an Emu 1212M cable. Built out of Canare Star quad cable and Rca connectors. 1/4 connectors are Dayton and are nicely wrapped in Neon Green Tec flex. I swear, this thing is alive and can awake me up at night.

I swear I won’t sell this one, yeah right.

[Thaddy]

Turbo: Of course that picture begs the question...

Why? Those are some damn bright IC's!