DIY Cable Gallery!!

[bidoux]

Originally Posted by Bonthouse

Did ya have to quote the pics..?
I mean, he really did a great job, but to see all the pics again..

Edited, sprry.

The question I was asking it is because with 2 XLR's you have 8 pins and to the sennn ony 4 pins .

[MrMajestic2]

Originally Posted by bidoux

Edited, sprry.

The question I was asking it is because with 2 XLR's you have 8 pins and to the sennn ony 4 pins .

Two XLR 3-pin will be 6 pins total and you only use 2 in each connector going to each headphone. Thats 4 in total.

[ingwe]

Originally Posted by bidoux

How do you cable sennheiser in XLR ? What pin do you use?

MrMajestic2 is correct: I used two xlr 3-pin connectors:

XLR connecter:
Pin 1: shield (not applicable for my cable)
Pin 2: +
Pin 3: -

Senn connector:
Small pin: +
Large pin: -

Originally Posted by JamesL

Ingwe, is there any reason why you terminated the senn cables with female-xlr's and used the male-xlr's on the TRS adapter, instead of doing it the other way around?

Good question. The female-xlr's on the senn cable allow direct connection to the Bryston's (see my sig) male-xlr outputs.

I was going to terminate the senn cable with a 4-pin xlr (as with a k1000), but decided to do it this way instead (one less adapter). I can always re-terminate if I change my mind later.

[kuzzz]

my first diy project it took me 6 hours to make..kapton wire is a pain to work with and my solder joints kept breaking please tell me what you think

[J.D.N]

Looks good. Might be nice to tidy up the exit of the wires from the sheath with some heat shrink and lose the cable tie.

How do you think it has affected the sound?

[Lil' Knight]

It looks really stiff for an IEM.

[kuzzz]

my order went totally wrong so i dont have any heatshrink that will fit. i got some 4mm heatshrink and i tought that whas the size when schrunk down:d and the wire was much thinner then i tought it would be :d and the sleeving is too fat...xD but is was fun to build thats something

my original cable broke 3 weeks ago so i cant compare but i think the higs have become better (smoother) and the bass has become more refined(les boomy etc).

yes it quite stiff indeed i whas expecting some more flexible wire but that went wrong..i'm never buying kapton wire again

[Lil' Knight]

[FallenAngel]

Yesterday, I found a pair of Cardas Sennheiser connectors in my wire box.

So naturally, I made a new cable. As with most of my cables lately, it's the same wonderful SPC that I bought. 10' long, Neutrik NP3C-B, first time using this 1/4", it is a serious plug, very tough, very nice looking and build quality feels fantastic. With the Cardas connectors, I think I'm getting better, it was easier to build and I think looks a little nicer than my last couple.




Next up is I got my hands on a very worn-down and torn up Headphile SR225. The sleeving was ripped in the middle, taped down with electrical tape, damaged heatshrink, the soldering in the cups was all messed up (sorry Larry, this one was but I have bought 3 of your Darth Beyers which all were wonderful), the plastic cups were damaged a bit and the Grado driver itself was loose in the housing. Whew.

A few hours of love and these were restored to their former glory and sound wonderful.

[qusp]

Originally Posted by FallenAngel

nice job fallenangel what a mission almost literally brought them back from the dead by the sound of it. Did they actually make any noise whatsoever when you got them? with the driver shaking around in the housing I cant imagine the bass detail was too fantastic LOL

here are some pics of a low profile prototype that ive been working on. I wanted to test out a new material (well i've used it before but not in this context) the material is epoxy putty; this stuff allows you to put your own dock together all you need is the pin cartridge (or whatever its actually called ) just the bit with the pins anyway. For this test though I just used it for the top of the cut down dock and it worked like a charm. all you do is mash two putties together like semtex and shape it into the desired shape. then after about 5hrs, just before its fully cured you can use some finishing paper (read fine sand paper) to get it into the final shape and ready for the enamel. you have about 6 hours to work with it until it hardens, and you can still carve it after that if you need to. Its great stuff with this, there's no need for gluing the dock together, you just shape it around the pins and wire/heatshrink as one piece and then it cures to a plastic like substance. so very strong and the dock doesnt need to be any thicker than the cable/wires that are going into it. I'm going to get really creative with this stuff. intending to build some models in CGI before the next one so I can get some really cool/slick shapes going on.

here's some pics of the LOD that I made with it

materials are : slim-line dock plug (part thereof)->mundorf Silver/gold 24AWG wire->silk->blue techflex and 'jester' techflex->neutrik RA mini
finishing materials epoxy putty, 400,600,1000 grain finishing paper, black enamel and clear satin finish enamel topcoat. The neutrik had the same treatment but also needed 'mr surfacer' underneath which is a great aerosol metal primer. I know its a bit of overkill but im a little OCD LOL


a couple of bits of fluff on here; its not the finish I just made the mistake of rubbing it on my shirt B4 taking the photo



now that I know how well it works its going to be my material of choice for custom builds like this.