DIY Cable Gallery!!

[[AK]Zip]

Originally Posted by monsieuroctagon

I've done this before and I'm getting pretty good at making my own cables. I just need a bit of guidance in it. My main concern is getting the connectors back in with heatshrink on them. In the 580s, the spot for the connector looks just about flush. Can I shave off parts of the plastic on the connector to make a fit?

If you are using the 650 connectors make sure to put the heatshrink on like I did or it won't fit:



I suggest you try with a 650 cable as its easier to work with and always comes out nicer looking.

-Alex-

[AA8]

Nothing too amazing. First mini to mini interconnect. Neutrik plugs, 24 AWG stranded silver plated copper (3 wire), bit of heatshrink added to help against stress, black techflex. Haven't cleaned up the soldering yet

[monsieuroctagon]

Originally Posted by [AK]Zip

If you are using the 650 connectors make sure to put the heatshrink on like I did or it won't fit:



I suggest you try with a 650 cable as its easier to work with and always comes out nicer looking.

-Alex-

I think I get it. The 650 connectors are a lot larger than the 580's, making it easier to modify. By the way, did you just splice or solder directly to the pins?

[[AK]Zip]

Originally Posted by monsieuroctagon

I think I get it. The 650 connectors are a lot larger than the 580's, making it easier to modify. By the way, did you just splice or solder directly to the pins?

I ONLY solder directly to the pins. If you read back through most of this thread you will come to find out I figured out how to pull the pins out solder the wires to them and put them back in.

-Alex-

[saab]

Originally Posted by [AK]Zip

I ONLY solder directly to the pins. If you read back through most of this thread you will come to find out I figured out how to pull the pins out solder the wires to them and put them back in.

-Alex-

Please be sure to post pictures of how you do this next time you have to make a cable. I have been taking the two pieces of the connector apart, but would like a cleaner procedure.

Thanks
-John

[[AK]Zip]

Originally Posted by saab

Please be sure to post pictures of how you do this next time you have to make a cable. I have been taking the two pieces of the connector apart, but would like a cleaner procedure.

Thanks
-John

Will do.

[RnB180]

Originally Posted by AA8

Nothing too amazing. First mini to mini interconnect. Neutrik plugs, 24 AWG stranded silver plated copper (3 wire), bit of heatshrink added to help against stress, black techflex. Haven't cleaned up the soldering yet

I think it would be best to use some for of adhesive to keep the flex stable.
From wht I see a short tug on the flex would pull it out of the barrel.

I usually run a tug test on everything I recieve or make. You can tell if a cable is built to last with the tug test!

[AA8]

Ah didn't even think of that! Thanks for the tip.

[RnB180]

no prob,


Here a couple more tips with the neutriks.


if you are using the standard ground sleeve, on that neutrik, you can also bend in the terminals in a bit, but make sure none of the terminals are bent in a way that may touch the ground or each other. This will make it easier ti screw the barrel back on and also prevent the left and right solder joints from cutting through the sleeve and shorting.

If you want to be careful you can attach some sor tof heat sink to the finger of the connector whiole soldering. The connector is not really heat resistant, so the plastic molding can melt if you hold the iron there too long. Ive found that High heat, short time works better then low heat, long time.

I also solder the ground to the clamp underneath the left terminal. This also prevents any potential short problems that may occur. Since they are so close together. This may prove invaluable if you ever use thicker awg. The wire I use is super fat for the neutrik, so I have to do some modifying to fit and teminate

I prefer to use the neutriks straight connectors over the switchcraft connectors. The switchcraft connectors are really trickey to get a good mechanical wet joint on the center pin. the switchcrafts require me to use rosin flux(even though the Cardas eutectic solder has a lot of flux already), two helpoing hands, heatsink, while using a seperate hemostat to hold the center wire during soldering.

Ive found about 700f a good temp for the neutriks and 750-800f for the switchcrafts.

[AA8]

Picked up a "Helping Hands" today and decided to put it to good use!

Fixed my one interconnect with glue and decided to make a few more.

Just a couple of mini 2 mini to use with my CMOY and Cowon A2



Followed those with an interconnect for my car (AUX for my cd player, easier to use the A2 than bring around CDs). My first cable would work fine, but I figured I would make it a little more heavy duty.

Same 24 AWG silver platted copper I used prior
The cable is run through clear 1/4" vinyl tubing
Had to use my step bit to widen the hole on the plug to 3/8" to allow the tubing and techflex to within the end. Secured with expoy.
Heatshink over the top to make it look pretty and keep the tubing/techflex in place.
Wish I had some better colors of wire



Then I decided to go ahead and recable my barely used Koss KCS 75s. Always heard they would sound better recabled and said what the hell. I guess I will have to have my girlfriend compare because she has listened to them alot more than I have