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Go Back   Head-Fi: Covering Headphones, Earphones and Portable Audio > Misc.-Category Forums > DIY (Do-It-Yourself) Discussions

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Old 11-27-2005, 08:20 PM   #1211 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by mishkakrisa
Well, this guy clearly didn't know what he was doing with his cable on his first IC (mini to mini) I was so worried about the soldering, had never done it before, that i didn't even think about the orientation of the ra connectors. So, is it fixable? How do I prevent this?
On a good note..it sounds great and the mini starquad is much more flexible than its big brother.
Hi,

I noticed you quoted me, were you referring to me?

btw, no need to desolder, just use a pair of clippers and gently lift the clamps. be careful, as you may damage the connector if done improperly. once unclamped, just twist the connector to align with the other and reclamp.

regarding tinning, I use a hakko 599b tip cleaner and Cardas eutectic solder with flux.

are you using rosin core solder? if so no flux is needed, I never use flux/paste on the tip, too messy. Also make sure your iron is hot enough before tinning.

I think my weller tip was like that. They use ceramic tips or something along that line, it prevents the solder from sticking to the tip instead of the joint. I didnt like how the joints looked with the weller solder station, so I got the hakko 936, and never looked back.


BTW IMHO 25 what iron is too low of a temperature. Youll get a lot of blobbly cold joints with the iron, unless you hold it there for a very long time. Even then its very difficult to get a fully wet concave joint.
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Old 11-27-2005, 11:03 PM   #1212 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by RnB180
Hi,

I noticed you quoted me, were you referring to me?

btw, no need to desolder, just use a pair of clippers and gently lift the clamps. be careful, as you may damage the connector if done improperly. once unclamped, just twist the connector to align with the other and reclamp.

regarding tinning, I use a hakko 599b tip cleaner and Cardas eutectic solder with flux.

are you using rosin core solder? if so no flux is needed, I never use flux/paste on the tip, too messy. Also make sure your iron is hot enough before tinning.

I think my weller tip was like that. They use ceramic tips or something along that line, it prevents the solder from sticking to the tip instead of the joint. I didnt like how the joints looked with the weller solder station, so I got the hakko 936, and never looked back.


BTW IMHO 25 what iron is too low of a temperature. Youll get a lot of blobbly cold joints with the iron, unless you hold it there for a very long time. Even then its very difficult to get a fully wet concave joint.
RnB180,
I was referring to something you said... as it had relevance to something stupid I had done. Was just for the purpose of asking how to solve such a problem...Hope I didn't cause offence in some way.

Anyway I'll give you're tecnique a try...thanks!

By clippers, do you mean needle nose pliers to lift up the clamps?

I need to get some more milage out of this iron before i get another...yes, it takes ages to heat stuff up....one day a hakko 936 may be mine too.
Thanks for the help!
All the best, Mish
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Old 11-28-2005, 12:43 AM   #1213 (permalink)
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Ive gone through about 5 soldering irons,

the hakko is the only one that lasted me longer then a month.

I use clippers, but needle nose pliers cant slip under the clamps. Just make sure you dont cut the clamps
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Old 11-28-2005, 10:13 AM   #1214 (permalink)
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Thanks for the help and advice RnB180!
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Old 11-30-2005, 12:16 AM   #1215 (permalink)
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Well, I finally got around to building a few more cables, still haven't gotten as much done as I'd like (Senn replacement cable) but these are a good start.

Pimp Daddy Cable - purple canare L-4E6S - 3/16" black techflex - Ebay Locking Gold RCAs


Stealth Cable - grey L-4E6S - 1/4" chrome techflex - Nuetrik ProFi RCAs


Orange Crush - orange L-4E6S - 3/16" black techflex - Canare F-09 RCAs

There are actually two sets of these being built as they're a Christmas present for my friend Ian.

And expect a few more pictures in the near future as I'm sure I'll come up with ways to use these:
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Old 11-30-2005, 12:22 AM   #1216 (permalink)
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Nate, I'm a big fan of those Stealth cables! I really like those Neutrik ends too, I've found them to make some very nice terminations
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Old 11-30-2005, 12:50 AM   #1217 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Thaddy
Nate, I'm a big fan of those Stealth cables! I really like those Neutrik ends too, I've found them to make some very nice terminations
Thanks man, they sound pretty dang good too! The Nuetriks are nice but I think I'm in love with the F-09s - they're hard to beat for the $$.
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Old 11-30-2005, 01:20 AM   #1218 (permalink)
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Nice work, Nate! Are you planning on doing any Litzing?
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Old 11-30-2005, 02:29 AM   #1219 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by The Monkey
Nice work, Nate! Are you planning on doing any Litzing?
Nah, there's a limit to my insanity (not to mention time). I'm planning on replacing every Monster™ cable that I've got before it's all said and done but that's about it. Given the relative cost of all my other gear these cables seem to fit in nicely, sure there are nicer, more expenisve options, but that will always be the case.
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Old 12-01-2005, 06:35 AM   #1220 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by saab
I finally got around to posting some of the Senn cables I make fo myself. Each one has a purpose. Right now the three cables I have made are from the Starquad family, two beeing Canare, and on beeing Mogami. I have not spent enough time with all three to comment on sound, other than they all sound better than stock.

Let me know what you think
-John
Hot damn, baby! I love the look of the 580 canare cord. I've got 10 feet of canare lying around here that i can put into a cable like that. I've got to know, where do you get the materials for all of that? I got my starquad and connectors on here:
http://www.markertek.com/Product.asp...&search=0&off=
can I get the other materials on the same site?
And what's on the red and white wires? Very long heatshrink?
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