DIY Cable Gallery!!

[VR6ofpain]

Originally Posted by ScubaSteve87

Yeah its a switchcraft striaight plug. I looked at it first too and was like...hmm hows that gonna work? no hole on the center post?? But I just threw some solder on there and bam. Shes solid as a rock. I was yanking on the cables pretty good and they didn't even move

Interesting. I wonder why people like it better than the neutrik:



I understand the preference of the Switchcraft RA, since the Neutrik 3.5mm RA is hideious.

[ScubaSteve87]

RA??? whats that?

I like that neutrik connector, looks so easy to solder. Ill have to try it for my 1/4 to mini. In general are neutrik's more expensive that Switchcraft? where do you buy your connectors?

[RnB180]

Originally Posted by ScubaSteve87

its a little better pic, Idk still kind of hard to see the right channel solder connection. Well I submit my first work to your criticism..

you over stripped the wire, the insulation should be stripped so it butts up against the solder platforms, You also didnt tin the wires prior to soldering, and the solder joints are a bit on the blobby side and dull in finish. the strands also seem frayed and not a cohesive unit.

the termination also looks to be a definate short hazard.

Kudos for tackling the switch craft straight plugs, altogether the switch craft straight plug solder platform design is ill conceived. Its definately not a beginner connector.

the trick to soldering the center pin is to leave a blob of solder on it prior to termination, hold the wire to the pin and heat, use a hemostat or angled needle tweezers to hold the wire in place so there is physical contact and not floating in a pool of solder.

prior to stripping the wire, hold the connector to it, so you can guestimate the length needed and how much to strip.

the neutriks slaughter the switchcraft straight plugs. the switch craft plugs seem to be more prone to oxidation than the neutriks also.

[RnB180]

Originally Posted by ScubaSteve87

RA??? whats that?

I like that neutrik connector, looks so easy to solder. Ill have to try it for my 1/4 to mini. In general are neutrik's more expensive that Switchcraft? where do you buy your connectors?

RA means right angle.

neutriks are easy to solder until you start using larger guage wire. the ground hole on the connector is a bit too small, larger wires would require you to solder the ground directly to the clamp.

[[AK]Zip]

Originally Posted by RnB180

RA means right angle.

neutriks are easy to solder until you start using larger guage wire. the ground hole on the connector is a bit too small, larger wires would require you to solder the ground directly to the clamp.

Or you can drill out a bigger hole.

[RnB180]

drilling a bigger hole is unnecessary work though. the plus is already frail its also better to solder at the base of the clamp, since the spacing between the ground and signal pins will be much larger and less lighly prone to short.

also scuba, its a good idea to tug on your leads to make sure there is a strong joint after soldering.

[[AK]Zip]

Today I decided to recable my SR80's. I finished about 4-5 hours ago and I am really happy with how they came out. I used 24gauge silver plated copper wire. The wires weren't going to fit into the Neutrik plug so I drilled out the hold and all of them fit along with the sleeving and heatshrink. This is the first time I put heatshrink inside the plug and I like how it came out. After recabling them I decided why not change the mesh grill on it and since I had some laying around from when I modded my computer I decided why not. Others have done it and I loved how it turned out. Most that I saw who used a different mesh grill on their SR80's didn't put the round emblem back on so I laid it down on the grill and looked at it. I liked it more with it on since it feels finished to me so I glued that down to the mesh grill. Overall this was really fun and immediately I hear that the bass has become much more controlled and the highs are no longer harsh. I need more listen time to make a final conclusion.







-Alex-

[[AK]Zip]

Originally Posted by RnB180

drilling a bigger hole is unnecessary work though. the plus is already frail its also better to solder at the base of the clamp, since the spacing between the ground and signal pins will be much larger and less lighly prone to short.

also scuba, its a good idea to tug on your leads to make sure there is a strong joint after soldering.

I usually don't use the holes for soldering down the ground wire. I do use the hole for the channels when they are there.

-Alex-

[ScubaSteve87]

Originally Posted by RnB180

drilling a bigger hole is unnecessary work though. the plus is already frail its also better to solder at the base of the clamp, since the spacing between the ground and signal pins will be much larger and less lighly prone to short.

also scuba, its a good idea to tug on your leads to make sure there is a strong joint after soldering.

Thanks for all your advice. I am a little concerned about a short, as ther are loose strands but I made sure none are touching and lat last night I did a little touch up work, getting rid of some of the loose strands in the conncetion. I also did give the wires a tug too right after I soldered them. Solid as a rock.

[saab]

Originally Posted by [AK]Zip

-Alex-

I have seen many of your cables, and they all have that fantastic covering. Where do you get it? Feel free to pm me if you like.

Thanks
-John