Got bored today and made some interconnects along with this little thing...
It is a 3.5mm-to-2.5mm, or as I like to call it the "mini-to-submini". No personal use for it. Gonna give it to my brother so he can run a cmoy with his cellphone (a smartphone with over a gig of storage, he has lots of wma files on it, along with some video).
What I would really like to make is one of those L/R/V sub minis with three RCA's on the other end. or maybe even a stereo 3.5mm for the audio, and a mono 3.5mm for the video.
Gotta admit though, soldering onto those little 2.5mm connectors is a PITA.
Spec:
4 wire litz braid, all SCC w/T.
Brown 20 (or 22awg) for the L+ and R+
one run of Purple 22awg and a second run of blue 24awg. Why two different gauges? I wanted three colors in the techflex (carbon).
Neutrik connectors (can't recall for sure of the 2.5mm partsexpress sells is a Neutrik or not).
Ya know what would be funny, a 2.5mm-to-1/4" connector!
__________________
Originally Posted by Tyson
I lock all my doors, because as a whiteman I need the privacy to invent better drugs to keep everyone oppressed.
Firsts of all... Thanks to everybody who has so far shared pictures and information on this thread. I wouldn't be posting here without you. On the other hand I would have much more money on my account...
Received some stuff last week that was hard to get locally. I have done some interconnects earlier, but they are boring compared to this. My first cabel worth showing here is mini to rca. It is litzbraided silver plated copper with teflon insulation. Mini plug is from Neutrik and rca's are from Biltema.
I wanted to sign my product. :allteeth:
__________________
Main rig: Meridian 506.24 -> Meridian 501V -> Meridian 556 -> Audio Physic Spark . all interconnect cables DIY, power cables Xindak FP-1 & DIY, Speaker cables Xindak FS-1, Xindak XF-1000S
Bedroom: Squeezebox 3 -> Meridian 563 -> Meier HeadFive #016 -> Grado RS1 (& Z-Flat ported C-pads) / DT 531 (recabled)
Cottage: Trekstor Vibez -> Korsun KS99 -> DIY Tangband W3-871S Buschhorn Mk I
Portable: Trekstor Vibez -> (DIY Chu Moy) -> Etymotic ER4-S
Office: Trekstor Vibez -> MingDa (Meixing) MC66-AC -> Grado SR325
Did you shrink tube the techflex down, the wrap it 'back' over the shrink and on down to the 3.5mm neutrik? I'm looking at your "Y" trying to figure out what you did. Definately unique.
__________________
Originally Posted by Tyson
I lock all my doors, because as a whiteman I need the privacy to invent better drugs to keep everyone oppressed.
I was pretty sure someone would look more at the y-split than my tag.
Even though the Thing for myself was my personal heatshrink.
I have to admit that the idea of the y-split is not entirely mine. The method was found from Techflex's catalog (page 42) and I only did reinvent the usage on the Y-split. Like you thought it is done by using shrink tube to attach the beginning of the flex and then wrapping the flex over itself. It did not work for me with the first try. The teflon on my wire is really slippery and that does have some challenges. As I did only have normal (one layer) shrink I used some tape (as Techflex catalog suggests) under the heatshrink. I did not want to use only tape since it would be visible, hence uglier.
__________________
Main rig: Meridian 506.24 -> Meridian 501V -> Meridian 556 -> Audio Physic Spark . all interconnect cables DIY, power cables Xindak FP-1 & DIY, Speaker cables Xindak FS-1, Xindak XF-1000S
Bedroom: Squeezebox 3 -> Meridian 563 -> Meier HeadFive #016 -> Grado RS1 (& Z-Flat ported C-pads) / DT 531 (recabled)
Cottage: Trekstor Vibez -> Korsun KS99 -> DIY Tangband W3-871S Buschhorn Mk I
Portable: Trekstor Vibez -> (DIY Chu Moy) -> Etymotic ER4-S
Office: Trekstor Vibez -> MingDa (Meixing) MC66-AC -> Grado SR325
I was pretty sure someone would look more at the y-split than my tag.
Even though the Thing for myself was my personal heatshrink.
I have to admit that the idea of the y-split is not entirely mine. The method was found from Techflex's catalog (page 42) and I only did reinvent the usage on the Y-split. Like you thought it is done by using shrink tube to attach the beginning of the flex and then wrapping the flex over itself. It did not work for me with the first try. The teflon on my wire is really slippery and that does have some challenges. As I did only have normal (one layer) shrink I used some tape (as Techflex catalog suggests) under the heatshrink. I did not want to use only tape since it would be visible, hence uglier.
I'll have to look at the Techflex catalog, online right? Interesting idea. What might be cool is to do that at the "termination end"...or is that where the Techflex catalog shows to do it? Though obviously you only could do one end like that.... so the cleanliness thing wouldnt work out.
I might have to do that for the hell of it. As I said, it is very unique...I personally have never seen that done before. You could also use adhesive lined shrink tube. Holds pretty well. I think most teflon is very slippery. It can slide out of electrical tape quite easily. kinda a PITA!
__________________
Originally Posted by Tyson
I lock all my doors, because as a whiteman I need the privacy to invent better drugs to keep everyone oppressed.
I'll have to look at the Techflex catalog, online right? Interesting idea. What might be cool is to do that at the "termination end"...or is that where the Techflex catalog shows to do it? Though obviously you only could do one end like that.... so the cleanliness thing wouldnt work out.
I might have to do that for the hell of it. As I said, it is very unique...I personally have never seen that done before. You could also use adhesive lined shrink tube. Holds pretty well. I think most teflon is very slippery. It can slide out of electrical tape quite easily. kinda a PITA!
No, I found this from the paper copy that I ordered with all the stuff. We were 8 Finns in a group buy and the total lenght of the flex was nearly 1000'.
And yes, the Techflex example was how to terminate one end. Originally I planned on putting the flex inside the 3.5mm plug, but the plug cover was too small for my cabel&flex combination. Afterall, I think my solution with the personal shrink is much better.
__________________
Main rig: Meridian 506.24 -> Meridian 501V -> Meridian 556 -> Audio Physic Spark . all interconnect cables DIY, power cables Xindak FP-1 & DIY, Speaker cables Xindak FS-1, Xindak XF-1000S
Bedroom: Squeezebox 3 -> Meridian 563 -> Meier HeadFive #016 -> Grado RS1 (& Z-Flat ported C-pads) / DT 531 (recabled)
Cottage: Trekstor Vibez -> Korsun KS99 -> DIY Tangband W3-871S Buschhorn Mk I
Portable: Trekstor Vibez -> (DIY Chu Moy) -> Etymotic ER4-S
Office: Trekstor Vibez -> MingDa (Meixing) MC66-AC -> Grado SR325
No, I found this from the paper copy that I ordered with all the stuff. We were 8 Finns in a group buy and the total lenght of the flex was nearly 1000'.
And yes, the Techflex example was how to terminate one end. Originally I planned on putting the flex inside the 3.5mm plug, but the plug cover was too small for my cabel&flex combination. Afterall, I think my solution with the personal shrink is much better.
You could likely fit it in the "L" neutrik's (partsexpress carries them). They have a larger 6mm entry, but only come in nickel (which I think is fine).
__________________
Originally Posted by Tyson
I lock all my doors, because as a whiteman I need the privacy to invent better drugs to keep everyone oppressed.
neutrik RA connectors will not fit anything more then three strands of 24 awg wire and flex, and even then its a tight fit, the connector seems built for 26 awg insulated wire with no sleeving.
the neutrik RA connectors are one of the worst Ive used, the entry diameter is much smaller then the standard straight neutriks and use a rubber gromit, with a ratchet type strain relief inside. If the wires are too large, the strain relief will not completly close and the connector itself will not seal.
neutrik makes connectors with 1/4" entry, but only in the nickel form. but imo, the nickel connector actually sounds better then the gold plated connector. Which is why I never use the gold plated neutriks.
Switchcraft connectors have a very large entry, but the solder platforms and design is poor. If incorrectly soldered, you can easily cause frequent shorting, the switchcraft connectors require a lot more skill to solder then a neutrik or straight canare.
regarding the flex sleeving, if you do not have the flex adhesive lined and mechanically clamped, it will be prone to slipping out. Outside flex can be remedied by using adhesive lined shrink, the glue will hold it, a trick I use is while its still melted I press my fingers firmly to make sure the flex is adhered to the adhesive.
__________________ I asked Jesus, "How much do you love me?"
"This much", He answered. Then He opened up His arms and died.
-anonymous "As far as the laws of mathematics refer to reality, they are not certain; and as far as they are certain, they do not refer to reality."
-Albert Einstein my headfi feedback
You could likely fit it in the "L" neutrik's (partsexpress carries them). They have a larger 6mm entry, but only come in nickel (which I think is fine).
I think you mean NTP3RC, which IS available with gold contacts as well. Looking at the specs it does not look any larger.
My wire was 24awg and having 4 wires + shrink + flex is larger than inner size the barrel of this plug. Drilling the opening larger would not ha ve helped either, since the threads on the barrel would have been the bottelneck.
__________________
Main rig: Meridian 506.24 -> Meridian 501V -> Meridian 556 -> Audio Physic Spark . all interconnect cables DIY, power cables Xindak FP-1 & DIY, Speaker cables Xindak FS-1, Xindak XF-1000S
Bedroom: Squeezebox 3 -> Meridian 563 -> Meier HeadFive #016 -> Grado RS1 (& Z-Flat ported C-pads) / DT 531 (recabled)
Cottage: Trekstor Vibez -> Korsun KS99 -> DIY Tangband W3-871S Buschhorn Mk I
Portable: Trekstor Vibez -> (DIY Chu Moy) -> Etymotic ER4-S
Office: Trekstor Vibez -> MingDa (Meixing) MC66-AC -> Grado SR325
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