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Today's Featured Head-Fi Blog: Jude's Blog
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Quite a while since I've updated this...I had alot of school summatives to do, so this has been put on the back burner...but FEAR NOT! I will have it done before the end of the school year. Only have to glue these suckers together now:
June 9
-First coat of tung oil put on (seems kinda blotchy, but that disappears when sunlight shines on them), binding posts and port tube secured in enclosure, pics coming in a sec when I complete the front baffle tonight.
June 11
-Drilled my tweeter holes, drum sanded them, did some manual sanding after. It turns out 120 grit sandpaper with a tiny jar of Tamiya model paint fills up the tweeter hole EXACTLY. A bit of sanding, and I was left with some perfect holes. One thing I don't like about the Dayton tweeters is that the body is slightly flared, so it makes it harder to get the actual diameter. Also, tweeter recesses on the back completed an holes for drivers drilled. Second coat of oil put on, but no pics of that.
You have gone to all this effort, why leave a sharp edge to cause poor wave form at the edge of the tweater - I would recommend that you route the edge with something like a 1/2 inch curve. Looking very good overall though..dB
June 13, 2008
-Finally :B Still have to glue the cleats in, you can probably see the baffles are not fixed yet. First impressions: Alot of bass, hmmm, how to fix this? Will dampening improve this, as I didn't put any yet...and will sealing in the baffle decrease the muddiness?
The finish looks spectacular in sunlight, but looks like crap under regular indoor lights. The tung oil adds alot of depth to the wood.
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