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Ok. Yeah I just realized what jERiCOh did. That's exactly what I want to do, but I'm not sure either how to do it either. Like you suggested I could just route the wires to pin 3 and 4. But will the original line out signals for 3 and 4 interfere with the signals from the WM8975? I think jERiCOh said we could cut the traces.
I was still hearing the click wheel when I was scrolling trough my library. It means that just installing the wires wasn't enough to get the signal from the DAC go straight to the dock connector. I had to remove the onboard capacitors and inductors as well to make the signal "perfect".
Last edited by jERiCOh; 12-15-2007 at 02:17 PM.
Reason: Added pictures
Perhaps, I'm wrong; the C84 & C86 may be dec caps. Does anyone know what they are?
Moreover, I wonder why not short all the components in within signal path? Won't this be earlier than soldering a thin wire in those 1mm pads?
The reason to solder a thin wire is to bypass the even thinner circuit traces on the board. Plus by doing so you can use better conductors than what might be utilized on the PCB.
I've just checked C84 & C86, and it seems as though they output to the dock connector (which I'm guessing we already know). But that's about all I know. They seem to have some resistance when I measured them with the previous recommended soldering points of those tiny resistors.
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okay, I figured out why my 1g nano was making the whining sound. I forgot to connect the ground for the jack :P my bad.. the whining sound is now gone.
anyways, this is a bit off-topic, but just want to show you guys the mini-cmoy i made to go with the nano
It wouldn't be easier because you'd have to find every single component that is in the signal path and short it, as opposed to soldering two wires to two pads. The latter isn't as hard as you think, whereas with the former you'd have to follow the traces everywhere which can be near impossible once you hit boards like the iPod video's where there are four layers of tracing, and then short everything which would somehow incorporate soldering to pads smaller than 1mm anyways. Not to mention troubleshooting would be a nightmare. By comparison, two wires to 1mm pads seems like a luxury.
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Ok. Yeah I just realized what jERiCOh did. That's exactly what I want to do, but I'm not sure either how to do it either. Like you suggested I could just route the wires to pin 3 and 4. But will the original line out signals for 3 and 4 interfere with the signals from the WM8975? I think jERiCOh said we could cut the traces.
If you want to have the diyMod nano 1G with a dock-connecting signal, then desolder the caps. If you want a diyMod nano 1G with a pigtail, you can keep the caps.
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"Ears that hear and eyes that see - the LORD has made them both." Proverbs 20:12
Team University-fi | Team Edmonton-and-Surrounding-Urbanities(1)(2)
anyways, this is a bit off-topic, but just want to show you guys the mini-cmoy i made to go with the nano
That's insane, ishtob. Did you make a pigtail with a CMoy in it? That's pretty cool, man. That's a first class nano. I'm impressed. Want to share more intimate details of the amp? At first I didn't know what I was looking at
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"Ears that hear and eyes that see - the LORD has made them both." Proverbs 20:12
Team University-fi | Team Edmonton-and-Surrounding-Urbanities(1)(2)
joneeboi:
I didnt pigtail cause this ipod's original trace for the jack was messed up when i bought it off another member here, so The bypass/blackgate caps are hooked up to the jack. the second reason to hook it up to the output jack was I can still use my othe amps (pimeta, and the still in progress SOHA) if I wanted to.
as for that amp, it's just a really basic cmoy with the opa2132 opamp with a gain of 5, I'm still working on a design to use the OPA2227 with maybe a buffer, but I'm still a long way from getting a working design.