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Go Back   Head-Fi: Covering Headphones, Earphones and Portable Audio > Misc.-Category Forums > DIY (Do-It-Yourself) Discussions

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Old 12-12-2007, 09:41 PM   #181 (permalink)
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I added a spiel on the nano 2G at the bottom of the original post. Anyone with a nano 2G who can confirm or disprove my conjectures would be of great help, as I don't have one on hand.

I'll post it here to save you time

iPod nano 2G - untested

That Apple branded 66AJSTB is supposed to be similar to the Wolfson WM8750, which should be similar tot he WM8975, according to the iPodlinux site. If anyone is so daring as to slice and dice their nano 2G's beautiful finish for the education of the community, I'm sure at least one person will be grateful for your DIY spirit. If my memory serves me, the 5G's WM8758 was supposed to be similar to the WM8750 when it actually borrowed more from the WM8978. If the 66AJSTB is more like the 5G's in that it shares the pinout of the WM8978, then the pair of caps sitting at the bottom middle of the chip, the ones with the darker yellow colour than the outside pairs, might be what you're looking for. In my experience, Apple has placed the target caps side by side, a fact that helped me figure out the diyMod 5G. If this policy is true, then the left side of the chip (as shown) cannot hold the traces we're looking for. If the 66AJSTB has the same pinout as the WM8978, then that darker yellow pair of caps process the information from OUT3 and OUT4 from the WM8978 datasheet, our target line out feeds. The leftmost dark yellow cap would then be OUT4, right, and the rightmost would be OUT3, which would be the left line output.
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Old 12-13-2007, 12:02 AM   #182 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vvs_75 View Post
I got my nano which was supposable need just to replace battery and its dead but I have coming another one in a few days.

Also I took apart my nano and it’s possibly that I be able to squeeze two 47mF Simic II caps. Simic II is best ELNA electrolytic and quite few people prefer it to the BG.

In meanwhile I am working on second part of the mod, which is film caps dock for my nano.
Well with that setup, are you going to be using resistors in series as well?
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Old 12-13-2007, 12:07 AM   #183 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joneeboi View Post
I added a spiel on the nano 2G at the bottom of the original post. Anyone with a nano 2G who can confirm or disprove my conjectures would be of great help, as I don't have one on hand.

I'll post it here to save you time

iPod nano 2G - untested

That Apple branded 66AJSTB is supposed to be similar to the Wolfson WM8750, which should be similar tot he WM8975, according to the iPodlinux site. If anyone is so daring as to slice and dice their nano 2G's beautiful finish for the education of the community, I'm sure at least one person will be grateful for your DIY spirit. If my memory serves me, the 5G's WM8758 was supposed to be similar to the WM8750 when it actually borrowed more from the WM8978. If the 66AJSTB is more like the 5G's in that it shares the pinout of the WM8978, then the pair of caps sitting at the bottom middle of the chip, the ones with the darker yellow colour than the outside pairs, might be what you're looking for. In my experience, Apple has placed the target caps side by side, a fact that helped me figure out the diyMod 5G. If this policy is true, then the left side of the chip (as shown) cannot hold the traces we're looking for. If the 66AJSTB has the same pinout as the WM8978, then that darker yellow pair of caps process the information from OUT3 and OUT4 from the WM8978 datasheet, our target line out feeds. The leftmost dark yellow cap would then be OUT4, right, and the rightmost would be OUT3, which would be the left line output.

This post is interesting. I have a 2G nano (8gb), but before I choose to open it up I would need more information. If we could come to a conclusion on the locations of the correct caps, then I'd give it a shot! This ipod too is collecting dust!
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Old 12-13-2007, 12:23 AM   #184 (permalink)
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My encouragement to you, wgr73, is that you could solder some wire to those caps without removing them. If it doesn't work out, you can desolder the wires just as quickly and nothing else will be affected in the operation of your iPod, assuming you don't snap a ribbon cable or something .
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Old 12-13-2007, 02:03 AM   #185 (permalink)
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Lol, thats true! Wouldn't want to do that again. I'll think about it.
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Old 12-13-2007, 06:03 AM   #186 (permalink)
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The correct caps are this one : 6,3 Volt / 47 µF / NX Hi-Q / 6,3 mm / 7,0 mm ?
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Old 12-13-2007, 06:05 AM   #187 (permalink)
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You can use anything you want, but yes, those are the "correct" ones.
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Old 12-13-2007, 06:31 AM   #188 (permalink)
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lol. I asked the exact thing earlier today. I think I might pick up a pair of BG 47uf and a pair of 220uf just to see if i can hear the difference.
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Old 12-13-2007, 06:36 AM   #189 (permalink)
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Quote:
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You can use anything you want, but yes, those are the "correct" ones.
Higher the µF is, better it is ?

How many wires I have to sold for the Video ? 3 : L, R & ground ? or only 2 : L & R ?
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8500km (5300 Miles) from my home :
Ipod Video 80 Go => cable Mini Crystal + adaptor dock/3.5 = > amp C&C XO => AKG K340 / Alessandro MS2 / Shure E4c / Etymotic ER4p + home made P/S adapter
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Portable Rig : Ipod Video 80 Go => cable Mini Crystal + adaptor dock/3.5 = > amp C&C XO => Shure E4c + Earmold Insono

Home Rig : Itunes Alac + PDA Salling Clicker => Airport Express => Dac Entech Cruncher 205.2 => Amp C&C XO => AKG K340 or Alessandro MS2 Modded

Others : Koss Porta Pro, Ipod Nano 2G 8Go, Etymotic ER4p

Gone : Iriver iHP120 20Go, Iaudio X5 60 Go, Shure E2c, Sennheiser PX100, Westone UM1, Sennheiser HD555, Amp Darkvoice 336, Sennheiser PX200
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Old 12-13-2007, 08:33 AM   #190 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joneeboi View Post
It's not just the capacitor and headphones though. You also have to take into account the input impedance of the amplifier you're using. I think a typical amp has about 10Kohm to 50Kohm of impedance, so that in conjunction with the headphones determines the bass response. Assuming you're using Grados at 32ohm impedance and an amp with 50K input impedance and 47uF BGs,

f = 1/(2*pi*(50,000+32)*47uf)
f = 1/(2*pi*50,032**0.000047)
f = 0.0677Hz
Apologies, I forgot about the headphone amp. In that case then only the amp input impedance is seen by the DAC, you don't need to include the headphone impedance as it is seen by the amplifier, not the DAC.
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