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For the guy trying to strip that Cardas wire. Dont use the exacto knife. Especially if you are doing it so it sounds good. I wouldnt trust the connection like that. Just take your iron and "tin" the wire and the coating on the outside will melt off. Maybe the lighter will work too, but from experience that is the best way to do it.
BTW good choice of wire. That is perfect for this application.
The diyMod stretches across another brand, with the Cowon D2Mod (naming ideas?). Behold:
This diyMod brought to you by head-fi member Punnisher, who happily supplied me with the internal photos. The sad thing about this player is that the line out is only available through video mode, and there doesn't seem to be any DIY source for the plugs. This diyMod is possible, but I wonder how useful it really is with the software. I'm also not an expert on this player, so if anyone could chime in, that'd be very useful for me and for everyone else.
Enjoy.
__________________
"Ears that hear and eyes that see - the LORD has made them both." Proverbs 20:12
Team University-fi | Team Edmonton-and-Surrounding-Urbanities(1)(2)
For the guy trying to strip that Cardas wire. Dont use the exacto knife. Especially if you are doing it so it sounds good. I wouldnt trust the connection like that. Just take your iron and "tin" the wire and the coating on the outside will melt off. Maybe the lighter will work too, but from experience that is the best way to do it.
BTW good choice of wire. That is perfect for this application.
Yeah, I haven't done the mod yet, but I did test the wire with a lighter... enamel burns right off without leaving any noticeable residue. The wire is soooo thin though. I know Cardas suggests using it for tonearm wire, which is well below line level (I think... not really familiar with anything TT) so I was starting to worry that it might be too small for this application. It's certainly EXTREMELY flexible and won't get in the way of anything, for sure. As long as it's sufficient for the job then I will go ahead and do the mod... been thinking of popping open the iPod tonight anyway...
__________________ Eyes attached to your mute portrait,
We spoke only through thoughts;
Together we gazed, awaited...
Hours brought thirst, and the rising sun.
Yeah, I haven't done the mod yet, but I did test the wire with a lighter... enamel burns right off without leaving any noticeable residue. The wire is soooo thin though. I know Cardas suggests using it for tonearm wire, which is well below line level (I think... not really familiar with anything TT) so I was starting to worry that it might be too small for this application. It's certainly EXTREMELY flexible and won't get in the way of anything, for sure. As long as it's sufficient for the job then I will go ahead and do the mod... been thinking of popping open the iPod tonight anyway...
You should be fine. If you're up to it, you could always save the caps or inductors you remove, and put them back if you run into problems. Btw, I wouldn't remove both. Removing one or the other will break the signal path. You just can choose which you want to remove. Hint: the larger components are easier to work with
__________________
PC(FLACs and Foobar2k) --> Sennheiser HD-580
MiniMod or 30GB Video --> FreqShow
If it's any consolation, the tone arm wire is probably still several times the copper traces alloted to the line out on the board. I use 30 AWG, and it's still much larger compared to what's given to the DAC pre-diyMod. As usual, remember to secure your wires and to not lift any pads.
__________________
"Ears that hear and eyes that see - the LORD has made them both." Proverbs 20:12
Team University-fi | Team Edmonton-and-Surrounding-Urbanities(1)(2)
all right, I've done the mod and it looks successful, but for the life of me I can't get the battery charging ribbon to go back into place. What is the trick that I am doing wrong!!!! iPod 5G Video btw.
__________________ Eyes attached to your mute portrait,
We spoke only through thoughts;
Together we gazed, awaited...
Hours brought thirst, and the rising sun.
Nevermind, got it. I thought it was a lever... more like a button.
__________________ Eyes attached to your mute portrait,
We spoke only through thoughts;
Together we gazed, awaited...
Hours brought thirst, and the rising sun.
Allrighty, I completed the mod, and I wanted to check and make sure things were all right.
First of all, the diyMod still plays music through both the headphone out and the LOD, so all's good there. The click will is a little recessed/loose, but I don't really see how there is a lot to do there.
Second, I have an old LOD that I was using with my Mini3 before the mod; doesn't have the BGs in it, obv. I wanted to check what the DC offset was with the interior caps removed. I got about 1.5V plugging up the LOD and checking the ground versus the signal. I then used my LOD --> RCA cable with the BGs and took another reading. It also started out at 1.5 V but steadily decreased towards zero slowly. I'm assuming this is due to the caps having to charge at extremely low currents (through the multimeter). Question is, how fast do those caps charge in circuit? When using an amp like the Mini3, with no relay and no decoupling caps, how long should I have to wait before plugging in my cans? I'm assuming it's very short if any at all because of the tiny capacitance in the BG (using the 47uF NX Hi-Q series caps)?
Thanks for the advice, and the mod already sounds pretty good!
__________________ Eyes attached to your mute portrait,
We spoke only through thoughts;
Together we gazed, awaited...
Hours brought thirst, and the rising sun.
Linear Mode