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I emailed the nice folks at Wolfson again about the WM8350, and their reply was that there is a non-disclosure agreement required before they send it out. That then means that I could get the datasheet and not tell anyone how to do it, or I could just get a Zune, open it up and poke around inside. I prefer the latter method because it doesn't compromise my integrity, so if anyone is interested in diyModding the Zune 2G, either poke around inside yourself or send it to me so I can figure it out. Holler.
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"Ears that hear and eyes that see - the LORD has made them both." Proverbs 20:12
Team University-fi | Team Edmonton-and-Surrounding-Urbanities(1)(2)
What gauge wires are people using for the hookup in the Ipods (specifically the Mini). I don't have much access to wire and don't really want to use generic EE project hook-up wire, so I was considering buying some.
The first page recommends the e-bay shop or Digikey/Mouser, but one is 24 AWG and the other is 30 AWG. Thanks!
Most people have been using either 28AWG or 30 AWG wires, so it's really up to you and your wire stripper what you want to do. John's Wire Shop carries anything from 20AWG to 36AWG, so you can pick whatever works best if the stuff at Digikey/Mouser doesn't suit your fancy. I am using 26AWG in my 4G because it doesn't have such a tight fit.
__________________
"Ears that hear and eyes that see - the LORD has made them both." Proverbs 20:12
Team University-fi | Team Edmonton-and-Surrounding-Urbanities(1)(2)
On the Mini, the wire runs SUCH a short distance that it really doesn't matter, use the smallest you can. I used 26AWG, and that's fairly thick for the mod, take the 30AWG.
Has anyone thought about swapping the existing caps on the headphone out of the minis? Since I've heard the mini sound quality isn't that great, I wonder if that would help. Biggest problem I see would be finding a cap in the right (physical) size, and trying to figure out what the existing cap value is.
I've thought about it, because at first, I couldn't figure out which were the line out caps (but ruZZ.il helped us out with that). I figured we could just send the headphone jack signal to the dock and turn up the click wheel volume. Once that didn't pan out, ruZZ.il came and found us out line out signal caps. First, it's an issue of capacitance, which then returns to the physical size problem. You have to find the proper capacitance for your headphones so that the bass doesn't roll off so bad. [Please refer to our favourite C = (2*pi*R*f)^-1 equation.] Then when you find the right size capacitance to match your headphone's impedance, you have to somehow fit that huge thing into the mini. By no means is it impossible, because ishtob pulled it off in the nano.
Somehow, one could pull it off in the mini, it just may not be as pretty. And sadly, I sold my mini 2G to ruZZ.il, so brainstorming will be harder on this end. You could very well drill a couple holes in the back of the mini, but for some reason, people don't like that method as much.
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"Ears that hear and eyes that see - the LORD has made them both." Proverbs 20:12
Team University-fi | Team Edmonton-and-Surrounding-Urbanities(1)(2)
Well, I'd want to keep everything internal. And knowing the existing cap value would help as I wouldn't want to replace them with a smaller value than what they already are. Beyond that, there's the question of the circuit that's rigged up in the mini. If it's taken from the datasheet, then I wonder what R should be in this case. I doubt they're using the recommended 220 uF though, as the 1st Gen mini I cracked open had a cap marked "100 4X". (Or at least I think those were the right caps.)
Oh yes, about your first post, the 1st Gen mini I cracked open was using a WM8731L. I think it's only the 2nd Gen that uses the WM8711 (though the pinouts are almost the same... the 8711 seems functionally simpler). I should probably take another look to confirm mine was indeed a 1st Gen...