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Take out C65/C66 right where L2/L3 were. CAvanessia did it on her nano 1G, but I don't think anyone else has done it and reported it yet. And the headphone jack should still work if you send the signal straight to the dock, although I wonder if you want to still use the headphone jack. I recently made the switch from 22uF BGs to 47uF BGs through the dock, and the bass is monstrous through my MAX+SR60s. I tried playing it through my car's iPod FM transmitter, but the bass started to make the signal clip. Switching to my bro's nano 3G made the music sound normal. I didn't have this problem with the 22uFs. Shucks. I had to switch from 47 to 22 a while back, and then I couldn't stand the bass anymore. I can't believe the difference it made switching back yet again to 47. Greatest switch ever. You might want to diyMod the headphone jack signal if you are going to use it.
__________________
"Ears that hear and eyes that see - the LORD has made them both." Proverbs 20:12
Team University-fi | Team Edmonton-and-Surrounding-Urbanities(1)(2)
I thought some diyModders might appreciate some pictures of the compact flash adapter. The bank account isn't really allowing me to get the 16GB CF card just yet, so I had to make do with a 128MB card on a broken iPod (logic board is dead). >_>
Aerial:
Side View:
Capacitor location:
As you can see, getting a $5 adapter and $100 memory replacement lands you better sounding music longer and lighter with a better variety of capacitors. I didn't mention that I'm squishing my 47uFs into my diyMod 4G. They were squeezed a bit and don't look as pretty, but they still work. Consider getting a CF card for your diyMod.
__________________
"Ears that hear and eyes that see - the LORD has made them both." Proverbs 20:12
Team University-fi | Team Edmonton-and-Surrounding-Urbanities(1)(2)
It seems we have another addition to the diyMod family: the Microsoft Zune 1G! This bad boy implements the WM8978/WM8758, much like in the iPod 5G/5.5G. I can't actually confirm that this chip is actually the Wolfson except by the process of elimination. Keep in mind that the chip is hiding right underneath the screen. Anyways, happy diyModding.
__________________
"Ears that hear and eyes that see - the LORD has made them both." Proverbs 20:12
Team University-fi | Team Edmonton-and-Surrounding-Urbanities(1)(2)
I love the courage to DIY but to me it makes me appreciate what Vinnie and Ken have done to date with great skill.
Either way you owe it to them for even bringing the idea to the mainstream.
Not worth frying an ipod to me and my imod still works flawless and gets used every day.
But good luck to anyone will to try it yourself!
__________________ Main Source: Apple TV (160gb) Main DAC: Musical Fidelity TRIVISTA 21 Main Amp: Ray Samuels Raptor (Silver#001) Main Cans: Beyer DT990 (600ohms) Tubes: (Vintage 1965 12AU7 Amperex, Vintage Tung-Sol) Power Cables:(ALO Audio) Interconnects:(Madrigal CZ Gels)
No doubt, trose, no doubt. I've tried to always maintain that the iMod birthed the diyMod, so we are always grateful to Vinnie for showing us this awesome mod. Nevertheless, the diyMod is distinct in several ways: it's accessible, customizable, and it reaches more models. It does take quite a bit of skill to perform this mod, which is why non-DIYers or beginners should consider getting someone to do it for them, such as Vinnie or Ken. Nevertheless, DIY is always a great way to learn new skills and to save money. Vinnie and Ken are great guys and are a big part of this community. Nevertheless, I couldn't afford the iMod or RWA cables, and I was lucky enough to be able to figure it out myself. That said, we are grateful to Vinnie for making this mod as popular as it became.
Yeah, we owe it to Vinnie. Nevertheless, I'm just glad I could save so much money and help others do the same.
__________________
"Ears that hear and eyes that see - the LORD has made them both." Proverbs 20:12
Team University-fi | Team Edmonton-and-Surrounding-Urbanities(1)(2)
I've been following this thread for a long time.
Very interesting
I'm about to diyMod my iPod gen5.
However, to make sure everything goes smooth, I've some questions to ask:
+ Firstly, I've to desolder the 2 Z caps, and then solder 2 wires to the pads under them. Right?
+ Now next the part I feel intriguing.
According to Figure D.B, I've to remove the 2 caps right under the L2, L3.
So what about C84 and C85? I can't understand clearly which to remove?
I wonder if someone has clearer picture of this.
And where I have to solder the L,R wires to. The pad with green arrows in Figure D.C?
And about the capacitors.
I intend not to use the BG NX Hi-Q.
I'm thinking about the Mundorf MKT 47µF/250V caps.
Can these caps replace the BG?
Is there is limitation on the voltage of the caps?
Once you desolder the Z caps, L2/L3 and C84/C85, send the signal to the bottom pad of L2/L3. The green arrows in Figure D.C are backups. If neither works out, you can try soldering to the dock. C84/C85 are the red arrows in Figure D.C, but they're so tiny you may just want to leave them on the board.
And those Mundorfs will work fine. As long as the voltage rating is above ~2VDC, then you're good.
Hope everything goes well.
__________________
"Ears that hear and eyes that see - the LORD has made them both." Proverbs 20:12
Team University-fi | Team Edmonton-and-Surrounding-Urbanities(1)(2)
Once you desolder the Z caps, L2/L3 and C84/C85, send the signal to the bottom pad of L2/L3. The green arrows in Figure D.C are backups. If neither works out, you can try soldering to the dock. C84/C85 are the red arrows in Figure D.C, but they're so tiny you may just want to leave them on the board.
And those Mundorfs will work fine. As long as the voltage rating is above ~2VDC, then you're good.
Hope everything goes well.
Thanks Jon After reading back, I got the clue Those backup pics really make me confused
About the caps, is there any difference if I use 2 pairs of Soniccaps in parallel and 1 pair of them in series ?
