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11-03-2008, 10:04 AM
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100+ Head-Fi'er
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Nantes, France
Posts: 255
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I won't find auricaps at my local store and propably not black-gates.
What are the most common caps to use with DIYmod ?
__________________
Sorry for my bad English
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11-03-2008, 04:04 PM
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Headphoneus Supremus
Member of the Trade
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Posts: 4,463
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blackgates (47uf NX hiQ or NX 100uf) for inside the case of 4G and 5G ipods (wont fit in the mini though) also BG (47uf NX hiQ or NX 100uf) for inside dock connectors. and for high end capped docks you can use any reputable brand, but Vcap (TFTF and VIOP), mundorf (SGIO or SIO), auricap, audionote if you are crazy or rich enough... the list goes on. the most common is blackgate though because they are great sounding and small witha reasonable price as well. just today I ordered myself some VCAP VIOP 3.3UF to use in a hammond case with piccolino wire. i'm putting several inputs and outputs on it too. adding TFTF VCVAP later down the track when the aussie dollar picks up a bit
IN
dock hardwired with piccolino
eichmann chassis mounted RCA's
chassis mounted mini
OUT
piccolino w/switchcraft mini
eichmann RCA
chassis mounted female mini
this dock is also going to be used with the bantam dac that i'm building plus any other DIY project that needs output coupling caps; thats why i'm putting all the I/O i'm leaving out the signal coupling caps in the bantam build and instead passing the signal onto this jack of all trades
__________________
Trasports
Mac G5 Dual 2Ghz with 2TB internal Raid, 2 x DIYMOD 5.5G, iRiver iHP132CF
The Sources
RME Fireface 400, DIYMOD 5.5G 120GB HD, iRiver iHP132CF, iBasso D10
Amps
TRIAD AUDIO Lisa III Standard, iBasso D10, Larocco Diablo
Cans
JH13 with prototype 26AWG cryoparts SCSCAg cable
UM3X w/UM56•SE530 with 'Vortex' cable
DIY LA2000 tassie b/wood
Twisted Cables cryoparts HD600 (Bocchino BAXLR connects)
Interconnects and tweaks (all DIY)
various Jena, cryo silver, cryoparts TWcu, SCSCAg, Duelund and piccolino cables,
Sys-Concept optical cables, Duelund copper VSF dock with Mundorf SIO bypass
Nearly finished TP Buffalo Sabre32
Speakers
KRK V6 active studio monitors with KRK RP10S powered sub
Head-fi Feedback
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11-04-2008, 06:48 AM
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100+ Head-Fi'er
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Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 224
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I'm kinda of new to this iMod thing and I'm really interested. I currently have a 1st Gen iPod Mini that I'd like to use. My question is what's better and is it worth the hassle:
Analog Signal from Line-Out
In this case, I would just make a LOD cable and add some BG's between the L/R & GRD. THen just send the signal to my CMoY. Simple!
Analog Signal from DAC to Dock Connector
In this case, I would have to internally wire from the DAC straight to a "free" dock pin for both the L/R signals. Then build a LOD that would use those "free" pins & GRD, and of course add some BG's (inside it's cramped).
I guess what I'm asking is directly wiring to the dock connector really make a huge difference vs. just grabbing from the OE line-outs (of course using the same caps)? It really seems like a PITA to solder wire inside the mini, plus you'd need to remove some caps and inductors inside?
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11-04-2008, 03:51 PM
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Headphoneus Supremus
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Posts: 1,720
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You wouldn't necessarily have to desolder anything from the logic board. It seems to make more of a headache and unnecessary risk of logic board bricking when desoldering those components. I'm thinking now that just about every diyMod should just short the components while leaving them on the board; the same would apply to your mini 1G. Depending on the wire, you could short the capacitors and inductors and just use the regular old pins 3 and 4 for audio output. ruZZ.il did this on his nano, but I wouldn't do it myself. You lose the versatility of switching in other LODs, say at a meet, and you'd have to go through the trouble of soldering to those itty bitty pins. Of course, do what you like since it's your diyMod.
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11-04-2008, 06:57 PM
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100+ Head-Fi'er
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Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 224
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joneeboi
You wouldn't necessarily have to desolder anything from the logic board. It seems to make more of a headache and unnecessary risk of logic board bricking when desoldering those components. I'm thinking now that just about every diyMod should just short the components while leaving them on the board; the same would apply to your mini 1G. Depending on the wire, you could short the capacitors and inductors and just use the regular old pins 3 and 4 for audio output. ruZZ.il did this on his nano, but I wouldn't do it myself. You lose the versatility of switching in other LODs, say at a meet, and you'd have to go through the trouble of soldering to those itty bitty pins. Of course, do what you like since it's your diyMod.
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Well that's what I'm wondering, is it "really" worth the hassle of soldering in a bypass from the DAC to the dock conector? Or just using the line-out pins with appropriate caps.
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11-04-2008, 10:00 PM
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Junior Head-Fi'er
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: North NJ
Posts: 12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwpowere36m3
Well that's what I'm wondering, is it "really" worth the hassle of soldering in a bypass from the DAC to the dock conector? Or just using the line-out pins with appropriate caps.
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the line outs -as far as an EE can see- still pass through multiple R/C & L/C filters as well as some kind of follower amp before it reaches the docking connector. So yes would be a good answer to that one..
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11-04-2008, 11:40 PM
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100+ Head-Fi'er
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Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 224
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RinksCustoms
the line outs -as far as an EE can see- still pass through multiple R/C & L/C filters as well as some kind of follower amp before it reaches the docking connector. So yes would be a good answer to that one..
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Nice I like that answer. So my next question is what's the best way to route L/R signals from the DAC to the dock connector? Do I just wire in a bypass and leave the caps and inductors on the board or do I remove them and then wire direct DAC dock connector?
I really don't like asking what seems like simple questions, but this thread is huge and I could only find one example of a mini.
Last edited by bmwpowere36m3; 11-04-2008 at 11:44 PM.
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11-04-2008, 11:49 PM
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Headphoneus Supremus
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Posts: 1,720
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I'd go with shorting the caps and inductors. Put the caps in the dock.
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11-05-2008, 12:36 AM
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100+ Head-Fi'er
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Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 224
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joneeboi
I'd go with shorting the caps and inductors. Put the caps in the dock.
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So basically removing the caps & inductors and soldering the bypass between the cap pads and the inductor pads, correct?
I'm assuming I will lose audio thru the headphone jack when doing this. Any pics or posts that would aid me in locating these components to remove and bypass, thanks.
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11-05-2008, 02:36 AM
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1000+ Head-Fi'er
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Flagstaff, AZ
Posts: 1,118
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwpowere36m3
So basically removing the caps & inductors and soldering the bypass between the cap pads and the inductor pads, correct?
I'm assuming I will lose audio thru the headphone jack when doing this. Any pics or posts that would aid me in locating these components to remove and bypass, thanks.
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The line out path to the dock and the headphone out are separate, so this mod won't affect your headphone out.
I think what Joneboi is advocating is that you NOT remove any components. When you remove the SMD devices, there is a risk of damaging the mainboard, so he is suggesting that you simply bridge them. For example, solder a small piece of wire, or maybe a resistor lead, around the caps and inductors. Essentially you create another path around the component. This would make your changes easier to "undo" if you later want to.
I'm not sure I agree with this method though. I understand that it will basically provide an alternative "path of least resistance" so the signal bypasses the internal component between the DAC and the dock. Joneboi, are you then also suggesting not to run a wire from the DAC to the dock? I thought the reason for removing the SMD components was to break that signal path, and then we added the wire to provide a "cleaner" path. So the traces, extra solder joints, and the bridges won't adversely affect the signal? If this is what you're thinking, you might be right. Maybe my reservations are just a psychological effect :P It seems like using my nice SPC wire will be better 
__________________
Work: FLACs->Foobar->BantamDAC->MHSS->HD580
Home: FLACs->Foobar->BantamDAC->SOHA II->HD650
Last edited by Hayduke; 11-05-2008 at 02:41 AM.
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11-05-2008, 03:11 AM
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100+ Head-Fi'er
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Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 224
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joneeboi
I'd go with shorting the caps and inductors. Put the caps in the dock.
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I've got this much so far:
Removing C53 & C54, then what's going on in that "mine-field" 
It's labeled accordingly (Start Top Left):
_____L6 ____L7 ___L8 ___L9 ___L10 __L11 ___L12 __L13
R76 __C68 __C69 __C70 __C71 __C72 __C73 __C74 __C75
So I connect from the "top" pads of C53 & C54 to what (maintaining Pin 3,4 Line-out)?
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11-05-2008, 07:04 AM
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100+ Head-Fi'er
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Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 224
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Well I desoldered what I hope were the right components (C53, C54, L7, L8, C69, & C70). So now where do I connected the upper cap pads to? Also using a solid copper wire good, 30 AWG?
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11-05-2008, 02:53 PM
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Headphoneus Supremus
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Posts: 1,720
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Do you have a digital multimeter? In the mini 2G I had, you sent the signal to L7 and L8 as FallenAngel showed us.
FallenAngel's diyMod mini 2G
Notice the destination of the wires at L7 and L8
It could be different in the mini 1G, so you'd have to double check the continuity to be completely sure.
Last edited by joneeboi; 11-05-2008 at 02:56 PM.
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11-06-2008, 03:19 AM
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100+ Head-Fi'er
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Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 224
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Well I checked it out:
Squares:
RED (C53) - Right Line-Out from DAC (~1.7ohms)
BLUE (C54) - Left Line-Out from DAC (~1.7ohms)
YELLOW (C69) - Dock Connector Pin 3
MAGENTA (C70) - Dock Connector Pin 4
So basically I just going to jump C53 to C69 and C54 to C70. Having removed the inductors and capacitors, from the line-out signal now leaves me in quandary. Looking a the Wolfson Datasheet, they show that this is how the "line-outs" should be connected before going to anything (amp or earphones):
Most iMods i've seen hear, IIRC, only use the coupling caps and not the resistors...
However when I measure between C53 and GRD (same with C54 and GRD) I'm reading ~100K ohms. And how does for coupling caps, BG NX 47uF bypassed with a (either Russian PIO or Vitamin Q) .047uF!
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11-08-2008, 12:21 AM
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Junior Head-Fi'er
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 17
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hey guys I have a question for you
Ok, so I have been browsing this board and I was really interested in doing the mod myself. Unfortunately I only had an iPod classic which wouldn't work, so I went and bought a 5.5 gen off of ebay, and of course it broke the same day I bought it :T
The hard drive failed. I was wondering if the harddrive from the classic would be compatible with the ipod video?!?
Could I take the harddrive out of the ipod classic (80 gigs) and put it into an ipod video (it was also 80 gigs)
Any help would be appreciated
I found the exact specs of both hard drives, but these numbers don't mean a whole lot to me.
Anyone else have a better idea and willing to help??
iPod 5.5 - http://www.storage.toshiba.eu/index_techspec.php?pid=87
iPod classic - http://www.toshibastorage.com/main.a...Specifications
Last edited by Seaningtime; 11-08-2008 at 12:54 AM.
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