X-Can V2 opening procedure

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I know this was posted on Headwize some 6 months ago but since the archives are down, can someone who has the X-Can V2 and has successfully done tube rolling post a DETAILLED procedure. I mean how exactly do you open the unit where do yo start. I remember there was some kind of a trap there, ie you could break something (the LED on the front perhaps) if not done properly, so please X-Caners, be as detailled as possible.
Thanx.

[Beagle]

I have the V1 but assuming it's the sasme, you remove the hex bolts from the rear, then remove them from the front face of the unit. You then take hold of the front plate and gently pull out. The insides are attached to the front plate.

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Thanx for the info Beagle.
As I remember from Headwize, the person opening X-Can V2 actually said that the front plate is only holding the LED. Also there is a screw at the back between the 4 RCA inputs that supposedly should also be removed first. It can be that the V2 is different.
Someone with v2please comment on that. I know there are several people that have done tube rolling on the V2. C'mon guys...please! A detailled description (for dummies like me) will not take that long to write and will be very useful for the archives.

[raymondlin]

The best thing to do is to find a friendly official Musical Fidelity Dealer and ask them to do the tube rolling, then everthing is covered. Oh, once you open it up yourself, the warranty is VOID!

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They won't do it raymondlin.
Even if you have problems with the tubes under waranty the MF techs will replace the tubes with the same JAN Philips ones. They will not accept replacing the tubes with ones you gave them.

[raymondlin]

That's why I said find a friendly dealer, I've ask the exact same question to my local dealer who I've spent a fortune with over the pass year and he said he'll be happy to do it. And it's a simple procedure, and he also said he has a box full of Mullard NOS stubes in his loft! have to have a word with him about those!

[Duncan]

Oooh...

Raymondlin... If your dealer has a box full... can you drop me an email with his phone number or something?

Thanks!

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Obviously, the MF dealers in UK are the best. The local ones here aren't and they don't have any boxes full of Mullard NOS tubes.

So, I'm still on my kness begging.
PLEASE, SOMEONE POST A DETAILED TUBE ROLLING PROCEDURE FOR THE X-CAN V2!!!

[raymondlin]

I think he has different types of mullard tubes, not just the ones for the X-can (6922). But I don't need those other ones, just a few pairs for the X-cans will do.

[Dusty Chalk]

Originally posted by blr
...the person opening X-Can V2 actually said that the front plate is only holding the LED. Also there is a screw at the back between the 4 RCA inputs that supposedly should also be removed first.

Those are both correct. In addition, there is a ground cord attached to the rear upper hex post, and a detachable knob on the front volume control.

The cost of using this information is to share with me any good sources of good NOS tubes, especially Siemens, etc. (Just your sources, not the actual tubes.) I'm still using the stock 6822's...

So the instructions would go like this (being very careful everywhere along the way):
- power off the X-CAN;
- disconnect all cables, both front and back;
- remove the volume control knob from the front (it slides straight on and off);
- remove both hex nuts on the back;
- remove the (philips head) screw on the back;
- remove and set down the back plate;
- remove the lower hex nut on the front;
- while holding the front plate, remove the upper hex nut;
- the LED is still attached, so, while being careful to push the PCB through from the back side at the same rate, pull on the front plate -- once the front plate is clear (maybe an inch or two), you should have enough slack to pull it off and set it down in front of the X-CANv2;
- you should now have access to the front tube socket without fully removing the PCB (it's sitting on little "rails" -- slots -- that are built into the case, like a carpenter's tongue-in-groove -type of situation, with the PCB being the tongue) -- the PCB will sit comfortably unsupported, but I would support it when doing any manipulation, or when more than half-way out, you don't want to arch the board at all and potentially damage the printed circuit connections;
- with a little bit of manipulation, you should be able to access the back tube by almost completely pushing the PCB through -- almost all the way out, from the front (you may need to manipulate the front plate so that there is no tension on the wire);

At this point, you can replace the tubes with whatever you wish.

Reassembly consists of pretty much doing everything in reverse order. A couple of helpful points, though:
- you may want to put the volume control knob back on early to help you steady the front plate;
- be careful about the wire -- it can get close to the tube, but you want it to be as far away from it as possible;
- when reattaching the back plate, do the top hex nut first, making sure that you loop the ground wire through the top hex nut before attaching it to the case;
- last step: enjoy!

PS Headwize is back up, and it seems to have the archives, if there is a good link, someone can feel free to post it, and I'll see how well I did.

If someone wants to make any corrections, let me know, and I will edit my post. Also, please also PM me, as I have been having attention and retention proble

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Thank you very much DustyChalk very nice and clear description.
I live in Sweden and will be happy to shere my NOS sources with you as soon as I find any. It's kinda tough here.
Thanx.
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