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| Headphone Amps (full-size) Discussion of desktop headphone amps. |
11-10-2009, 01:01 AM
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Headphoneus Supremus
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: GreaterTorontoArea in Sub-Urbaine hell
Posts: 3,113
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Currawong
Does the Zero still default, when you switch it on, to non-pre-out mode, sending the full signal out? If so, I wouldn't recommend it as a pre-amp.
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Good point Curra. 
The best way to avoid such a thing would be to switch the Zero on first before powering anything else up, engage the preamp section making sure that the Zero's vol pot is at min setting and then adjust from there.
Peete.
__________________
Cans :HD650, AKG 240M (HD650 DIY cables SE and Balanced)
Desktop amps : LD MK III (6H30P-i DR's + DIY mods, Jaycar DIY kit amp (major DIY mods), 2 X Audio-gd Compass (test prototype,final version), Audio-gd C-2C W/ Stepped pot Upgrade, Audio-gd Phoenix SS balanced preamp/headamp.
Transports: Auzen Prelude PCI 7.1 SC/ASIO native driver using Media Monkey (all EAC ripped FLAC/Wav), Vanguard CDM12 Pro (BNC mod), HK HD720 (completely upgraded), Audio-gd CD7 Transport.
Sources: FrankenDAC DIY 24/192 dac (HDAMs/Teflon/PIO cap mod), Compass DAC, See Corp Vintage UK TT(Mission arm/Ortofon OM20S MM cart), Yaqin MS12B tube phono preamp, TEAC V530X Tape deck, Audio-gd Reference 1 DAC. C2C DIY pot mod http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f6/ste...1/#post5846722
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11-10-2009, 01:03 AM
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Head-Fi'er
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Nebraska
Posts: 57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Currawong
Does the Zero still default, when you switch it on, to non-pre-out mode, sending the full signal out? If so, I wouldn't recommend it as a pre-amp.
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With mine, when it's turned on it's in pre-out mode, but you have to manually turn on the pre-amp/headphone out. I guess since I have mine hooked up to a receiver it doesn't matter for me personally.
__________________
Behringer UCA202(just for USB) > Zero DAC > Little Dot MKIII > HD650
Feedback
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11-10-2009, 01:06 AM
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100+ Head-Fi'er
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Houston, Austin...Texas.
Posts: 180
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I still don't understand why this would be an issue in my scenario -- Zero DAC --> pre-amp output straight to a pair of audioengines. Would this work, or would there be issues if I forget to change the DAC to pre-out before powering on my speakers?
Last edited by Qonmus; 11-10-2009 at 03:09 AM.
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11-12-2009, 10:23 AM
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Head-Fi'er
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 39
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Just bought one of these to use solely as a DAC to then go to my Little Dot MK III. I saw it was the newest '09 version, look forward to getting it
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11-16-2009, 05:48 PM
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Junior Head-Fi'er
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 15
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I need some help, i have the Zero DAC with the HDAM, LT1364, and upgraded volume pot from 2008, i didnt used for some time but i manage to buy a new motherboard for my pc and i have optical and coaxial on onboard sound, the problem is that i have sound only on the right side on my headphones, i tried the headphones directly to the card and they are working perfectly, i tried coaxial and optical connection to be sure is not the cables but still the same issue, i think my Zero DAC is broken and im noob, dont know anything about this, can you give me some advise, what can i try, im totally sure the problem is from Zero DAC because like i said i tried the headphones directly to the onboard card, i tried different cables, so the problem can be only from the Zero DAC.
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11-16-2009, 06:01 PM
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100+ Head-Fi'er
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 430
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I'd first check the 1/4" output jack inside. be sure it is solidly connected to the circuit board, and that the connections inside make good contact. Those jacks are pretty cheap.
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11-16-2009, 06:41 PM
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Junior Head-Fi'er
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oatmeal769
I'd first check the 1/4" output jack inside. be sure it is solidly connected to the circuit board, and that the connections inside make good contact. Those jacks are pretty cheap.
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1/4 jack is the problem, the biggest problem now is how i changed it?
Last edited by DaLiu; 11-16-2009 at 07:37 PM.
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11-16-2009, 08:33 PM
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100+ Head-Fi'er
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 430
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Unfortunately, it isn't just a quick swap out of a switchcraft. You will need to desolder it carefully from the board, and replace it with the exact same type of input. Take it with you to the electronics store to be sure, most of those guys are pretty helpful (unless you go to Radio Shack, in which case don't listen to anything they say...).
it is probably just a simple 3 conductor TRS with a switching ground, but I haven't looked at it.
The good news is that the whole repair shouldn't cost more than about $3.50, assuming you have basic soldering tools.
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11-16-2009, 08:37 PM
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100+ Head-Fi'er
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 430
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double post
Last edited by oatmeal769; 11-16-2009 at 08:53 PM.
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11-16-2009, 08:43 PM
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100+ Head-Fi'er
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Upstate NY
Posts: 261
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I had a similar problem with my output jack. It actually had nothing to do with the solder connections. I would recommend trying some contact cleaner first before getting involved with swapping that thing. It has 8 tabs instead of pins and won't be much fun to replace. If it had a simple jack I would upgrade the thing but it's an annoying el cheapo.
I wasted about two hours thinking I screwed up my installation of a cheap attenuator because some oxidation on the jacks contacts were preventing right channel output. I even ordered the closest things I could find to replace the thing before I figured out the real problem. Luckily, they were only about $10 for 2 of them shipped.
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Support your local donkey show.
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11-16-2009, 08:54 PM
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Junior Head-Fi'er
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 15
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The only problem im from Europe (Czech Republic), im thinking maybe LAWRENCE can send me a replacement part and i pay to him by paypal or something, ill try to send him a email.
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11-16-2009, 08:55 PM
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Junior Head-Fi'er
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crapback
I had a similar problem with my output jack. It actually had nothing to do with the solder connections. I would recommend trying some contact cleaner first before getting involved with swapping that thing. It has 8 tabs instead of pins and won't be much fun to replace. If it had a simple jack I would upgrade the thing but it's an annoying el cheapo.
I wasted about two hours thinking I screwed up my installation of a cheap attenuator because some oxidation on the jacks contacts were preventing right channel output. I even ordered the closest things I could find to replace the thing before I figured out the real problem. Luckily, they were only about $10 for 2 of them shipped.
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Do you think i can find something similar online somewhere?
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